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- "*'s. 

Number Five 


i A Treatise on LACE MAKING 



Published by THE BARBOUR !VevvYorK Bos,on 


Price Ten Cents 




St Louis 

San Francisco • 


Received 3 Highest Awards at the World's Fair J 893. 

apiary Ann r ~ 




• • • • 

Distin guished Excellence, 

Uniformity, Strength, 

Adaptability, Durability, 

Barbour's Prize Needle-Work, Series No. 5 

Imperial Photograph Frame. 

MATERIALS:— Barbour's Ulster Rope Linen Floss, 3 skeins 
each No. 10 and No. 20, 2 skeins each No. 70 and 71, 
and 1 skein No. 1, piece of gray linen 11Kx14X inches, 
and embroidery needle. 

HE design is transferred to the linen, and em- 
broidered exactly as illustrated, every stitch 
being perfectly shown. When completed, lay 
face down on several thicknesses of soft cloth, 
and press with a moderately hot iron. It is well to lay a 
dampened cloth over the back in doing this. Cut a frame 
from heavy pasteboard, rounding the top as shown, ^ inch 
smaller than the linen, and cover with a layer of wadding, 
bringing this slightly over the edge. Stretch the linen over 
this, taking care to have it exactly even, and without cutting 
out the centre, fold to the back and glue down. When dry, 
begin in centre of opening, cut towards edge, and draw 
smoothly to the back, gluing down. Cover a second piece of 
pasteboard (less heavy than the first) with fine satine or other 
suitable material, glue this to the front at sides and bottom, 
leaving space at top to insert the photograph or other picture. 
Attach an easel back, either of heavy pasteboard, covered 
with satine, and hinged on, or one which may be purchased 
for the purpose, and the frame is complete. Although quickly 
and easily made, it is one of the most effective designs ever 
produced, and is sure to be admired by all who see it. 


That all 




carries '"**>&+ 

this Trade=Mark. 

Barbour's Prize Needle-Work, Series No. 5. 



That all 




carries '*^*» 

this Trade-Mark. 

BOOK NO. 5. 







BOOKS No. i, No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4, 





will be sent to any address on receipt of ten cents each. In the 
Prize Needle-work Series no patterns are duplicated, and the whole 
form a compendium of the choicest designs. 

If customers find difficulty in procuring Barbour's Irish Flax 
Threads and Flosses from their local stores, it will be sent from The 
Barbour Brothers Company, New York, postpaid, at prices below. 
We shall be pleased if our friends will kindly give, when writing, 
addresses of dealers to whom application for the threads has been 
made : 
3 -cord 200-yards spools dark-blue, white, whited-brown (or 

ecru), and drabs, spool 10 cents. 

3-cord carpet thread, any color, skein 3 cents. 

00 Ulster rope linen floss, 80 shades, skein 5 cents. 

No. 4 etching flax, any color, 80 shades, 2 skeins ... 5 cents. 

Color book, containing full line of shades 10 cents. 

White Star flossette, sizes *, **, ***, and ****, skein . . 5 cents. 
New Irish flax lace threads, 3-cord, 200-yards spools, No. 

120 and No. 150, spool 10 cents. 

New Honiton lace thread, 2 -cord, 200-yards spools, No. 

250, very fine and strong, and serviceable also for the 

finest knitting, crocheting, and other lace-work, spool, 10 cents. 
Crochet thread, gray ecru, and white : 

Nos. 16, 18, 20, and 25, ball 15 cents. 

Nos. 30, 35, 40, and 50, ball 20 cents. 

Nos. 60 and 70, ball 25 cents. 

Flax macrame, 4-ounce ball 25 cents. 

New Ulster (or Russian) braid, per yard, 5 cents ; 12 yards, 50 cents. 

Copyright, 1S96, <* p * ss or 

by fyochtozd anti C&urtfcUI, 

The Barbour Brothers Company. BOSTON. 






Grape Lace 9 

Diamond Lace and Inser- 
tion 10 

Picot and Shell Lace . . 13 

Barred Lace 15 

Czarina Lace 17 

Scarf Lace and Insertion . 18 

Dainty Lace and Insertion, 21 

Mary E. Bates Lace ... 23 

Maltese Lace 26 

Scarf End 27 

Rose Mat 29 

Wheel Tidy 30 

Infant's Bib 32 

Child's Waist 33 

Daisy Doily 34 

Table Mats 36 

Star Centre-Piece or Tidy, 39 

Pineapple Tidy 39 

Work-Basket 42 

Centre-Piece, with Star 

Border 44 

Photograph Frame ... 46 

Old English Tidy .... 47 

Night-Dress Case .... 48 

Tatted Centre-Piece . . 50 


Torchon Lace and Inser- 
tion for Handkerchief . 52 
Macrame Fringe . . . . 55 

Darned Lace 57 

Lamp-Shad e 58 

Round Doily 60 

Handkerchief Corner . . 61 

Round Drawn-Work Doily, 63 

Sofa Pillow 65 

Square for Small Table . 66 

Table Scarf 67 

Book Cover 68 

Sofa Pillow 68 

Oak-Leaf Pillow .... 69 

Point Lace Handkerchief . 71 

Lace Stitches 72 

Handkerchief in Point 

Lace 76 

Lace Points 78 

Tea-Cloth in Old English 

Point 79 

Renaissance Centre-Piece . 81 
Heart Design in Royal 

Battenburg 82 

Antique Square .... 84 
Cloyerleaf Doily, in Ideal 

Honiton 85 

Centre Square Sy 

Russian Collar 88 

Table-Coyer 89 



Directions for washing Embroidery on page 101. 

1734 CfSScwHlM 1896 

We take pleasure in calling attention to the article on "The 
Antiquity of the Linen Industry,'' prepared especially for No. 5 of 
the Prize Needle -work Series, by Charles Richards Dodge, Special 
Agent, in charge of Fibre Investigations, United States Department 
of Agriculture. In a note accompanying the MS. Mr. Dodge gives 
some additional information which will be appreciated. Referring 
to the photographed whorls, the originals of which are in the 
National Museum, he says : " These whorls were of stone or bone — 
sometimes terra-cotta — and measured two and one-half to three 
inches in diameter. The wooden spindle was thrust through the 
hole in the centre, the whorl serving as a weight to give impetus to 
the spindle when twirling it to twist the flax." 

Through the kindness of Dr. Thomas Wilson, Curator, Department 
of Prehistoric Anthropology, United States National Museum, we 
are enabled to reproduce, also, a piece of Egyptian embroidery. In 
Dr. Wilson's collection are bits of flax embroidery more than four 
thousand years old. That photographed is more modern, but still 
very ancient, and in a remarkable state of preservation. The tre- 
foil design seems peculiarly significant when it is remembered that 
the shamrock, or white trefoil, figures extensively in the trade-mark 
of the oldest and largest flax-spinning mills in the world to-day. 

It seems a wonderful thing that it is possible to see and touch 
these bits of human handiwork, produced centuries ago by the use 



of needle and flax, just as ladies of our own day are producing 
charming personal and household adornments. Yet we can more 
easily comprehend the preservation of these embroideries in the 
sand and dry atmosphere of Egypt, than that the flax thread and 
cloth of which Mr. Dodge writes could survive the burial for ages 
beneath the lake mud, to tell us in their resurrection the story of 
the earliest race of which we have a definite knowledge. Frag- 
ments of nets have been found, made of flax -cord, the meshes as 
regular as if netted in our own time ; and ladies who are now using 
the flax threads and flosses for every variety of needle-work will be 
interested to know that among the relics of the stone age are found 
also needles and hooks of bone and stone, used for netting and for 
knotting fringe into the woven fabrics. Love of ornament seems 
always to have been a human characteristic ; and it may be said 
that with these primitive lake-dwellers originated the art of lace 
making — an art which attained its highest development in the six- 
teenth century. The revival of interest in this most ancient of 
industries is of comparatively recent date, yet it is increasing year 
by year; and in coming generations few families will not again 
possess an heirloom, priceless indeed, of rare old lace. Our Prize 
Needle-work Series contain several specimens of hand-made lace 
which are certainly creditable not only to the worker and the pub- 
lishers, but to the century, as well. Especially is this true of the 
present volume. Our work is educational ; and while our books are 
practical, incorporating articles on every class of needle-work, the 
standard grows higher with each succeeding volume. Ladies take a 
just pride in having their work appear in Barbour's Prize Needle- 
work Series, and are anxious to give us only their best ; and this is 
quite as it should be. It is hoped that Mr. Dodge's article will lead 
to a more general study of this subject, especially of interest to 
needle-workers. One conclusion, surely, will be reached by all : that 
flax alone should be used in the production of laces, embroideries, 
etc., which are desired to withstand the wear and tear of genera- 
tions. Even aside from the question of durability, cotton should 
never be used in any grade of art work, since it lacks flexibility, is 
harsh, lustreless, and in every way disappointing. The best needle- 


workers everywhere understand this, and are repudiating its use, rec- 
ommending unanimously the flax threads in varied sizes and forms. 

The value of Barbour's Irish flax threads in ecclesiastical 
embroidery is being recognized more and more widely, and their 
use extending among church workers in other countries than our 
own. Certainly flax is peculiarly adapted to this class of work. 
The colored flosses have all the virtues of silk, with none of its 
defects, being less expensive and more serviceable. For Renais- 
sance and other laces, every size of thread is represented. The 
linen used in the communion services gives ample scope for the 
finest of lace stitches, in the production of which Barbour's new 
honiton lace thread, No. 250, 2 -cord, is used with the most perfect 
results. For our next issue we hope to have some admirable 
designs for ecclesiastical work. In this connection, a hint given us 
by a church school of needle-work may be of value, viz., that the 
ecclesiastical girdle, page 53, No. 4, be made of No. 25, 3 -cord, 200- 
yards spools, using directions given for work, and having a cord 
inside the girdle. We are always glad to receive like suggestions, 
showing how published articles may be modified or changed to suit 
other requirements. 

Again, no hesitancy need be felt by any purchaser of the Prize 
Needle-work Series in writing to any contributor or to the editor 
herself, should there be difficulty in working from directions given. 
During the publication of the entire series, less than one dozen 
complaints of this nature have been received. In the beautiful 
"Knitted Corner for Handkerchief," page 56, No. 4, occurs the 
first error that has been noted, and this not puzzling to a lady skilled 
in knitting. The lace is knitted with Barbour's lace thread, No. 150, 
3-cord, 200-yards spools; in 1st row, page 55, n (preceding*) 
should be omitted; the 19th row, page 57, should begin with si and 
b, omitting the n; in 7th row, page 58, 1 stitch is picked up, and 
the 44th row, page 59, begins with k 1. The " Centre Square," page 
112, requires a 14-inch square of linen, for centre, instead of 
Y^ inch ! Let it be remembered that all samples from which illus- 
trations are made, with absolutely correct directions, are in the 
hands of the publishers, and either editor or contributor of any 


article is always glad to render any possible assistance. For such 
information, a stamp should be enclosed. 

Special reference to the beautiful colored plates in this issue 
seems almost superfluous. Let us try to imagine, for a moment, the 
wondering admiration which would be elicited by a piece of similar 
work coming to us from the tombs of ancient Egypt ! It is also 
unnecessary to suggest that any pattern of lace, for which a fine 
thread is specified, may be effectively copied in coarser numbers, 
much depending on the use for which the trimming is designed. 

Contributions of work done with Barbour's Irish flax threads and 
flosses are regularly purchased for the Prize Needle-work Series, the 
directions being carefully written out uniformly with those published. 
The price must be plainly marked upon each article, which, if found 
desirable, will be paid for at once, if not, will be returned, charges 
prepaid. Contributions must be prepaid by the sender. Detailed 
information concerning sale of work will be found in No. 4. A 
price-list of all patterns, etc., used in the Prize Needle-work Series 
has been prepared, and will be sent to any lady desiring it, together 
with a table of contents for the entire series. 


All communications should be addressed, 


Needle-Work Department, 

218 Church Street, 

New York. 
October, 1896. 


Few people appreciate the antiquity of the use of flax fibre in 
spinning and weaving. Recent discoveries of the remains of the 
Swiss lake villages, which go back to a remote period of the world's 

history, reveal the fact that flax was 
produced by these ancient lake 
dwellers of the stone age, and was 
spun and woven by them, specimens 
of the flax straw, flax threads, and 
cloth, as well as parts of the spindles, 
being found in the lake mud, well 

The growth and manufacture of 
flax was a national industry in Egypt three thousand years before 
the Christian era, and well-preserved Egyptian linen cloth and em- 
broidered linen are treasured in the museums, several specimens 
being over four thousand five hundred years old. Some of these 
Egyptian linens are of wonderful fineness, a fabric in the British 
Museum showing over five hundred threads to the inch. 

In Greece and Rome, even before the Christian era, linen fabrics 
were very commonly 
worn, the women of the 
household spinning the 
flax, though the slaves 
often did the work of 
weaving. It is a curious 
fact that the spindles 
used by the ancients, 
even as far back as the 
stone age, — as well as 
those used by the abo- 
rigines of many countries to-day, — are practically one and the same 
thing, for the spinning-wheel only came into use two or three 
hundred years ago, to be superseded in our age by the wonderful 
spinning machinery at present in use in the linen mills of all civilized 



[Contributed by Miss A. HAUSMAN, 1514 Ridge Avenue, Philadelphia, Pa. J 

Materials: No. 16 Barbour's Irish flax crochet and lace thread, 
in balls, steel hook, size 3. 

Make the grapes first. Ch 3, join. Fill ch with dc, and con- 

Grape Lace. 

tinue working around in this st, widening as needed, for 7 rows. 
Then decrease by missing a st occasionally to bring grape to proper 

10 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

shape. Just before finishing stuff tight with cotton batting. Make 7 
grapes for each cluster. Ch 78 to join by. Join to lower grape, 
work up 5 sc on ch, ch 3, join to 2d grape, work back to founda- 
tion ch with sc, 2 sc on ch, ch 3, join to 3d grape, work back, and so 
continue, having the bunch lie smooth. A little experience teaches 
what is difficult to describe fully. For the leaf, ch 7, join, 8 dc, 
ch 9, dc on ch, fasten to dc in ring, dc in dc, ch 5, dc back to ring, 
thus forming the notches in leaf, and continue. By taking back 
vein of st the ridge is formed. The stem is a ch with sc, thus 
making a double ch. To finish the top of lace, make a straight ch, 
then a row of tc with 1 ch between, then 2 rows of dc in each st, 
making a ridge. Next row, ch 6, fasten back to 3d, forming a 
picot, ch 3, dc in 4th st, and repeat. Next row is of chs of 5, 
fastened in ch after each picot, then 2 rows of dc, as before, and a 
row of tc, with 1 ch between. For the lower edge, make a straight 
ch, fastening to grapes so they will lie smooth. The illustration 
shows plainly how this is done, and directions in a work of this 
kind seem confusing. The picots are made by fastening back in 
ch, 3 or 5 sts, as may be. Make a row of tc, then 2 of dc, and the 
ch loops, as in top of lace, then 2 rows of dc, and finish with a 
row of picot loops. Centre stem is a ch worked with dc. This is 
a unique design, especially handsome for trimming heavy articles, 
and one used to crocheting can easily work it. The coarse flax 
threads make very rich and effective trimmings. If liked, the 
grapes may be of £cru, which in the ball threads is a deep, rich 
tint, such as I do not find in any other. This design may, of course, 
be worked in finer thread, if desired. No. 40, with hook size 1, 
makes a pretty trimming. 


[Contributed by Belle Anderson, Guthrie, Oklahoma.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 70, 3-cord, 200-yards 
spools, and steel hook, size o. This makes a beautiful lace 6 inches 
deep, and insertion 3^ inches. No. 35 or No. 40 of the same thread 



makes a rich, heavy lace, suitable for trimming buffet scarfs, etc., of 
linen, and No. 25 for finishing a bedspread, for which strips of the 
insertion may be set with strips of bolton sheeting or similar 

Ch 55, turn. 

1. Sh of 5 tc in 4th st, miss 2, dc in next, * miss 2, sh of 5 tc 
in next, miss 2, dc in next, repeat from * twice, ch 5, miss 5, dc in 
next, miss 2, * sh in next, miss 2, dc in next, repeat from * 3 

Diamond Lace and Insertion. 

2. Ch 3, 2 tc in dc last made (forming half sh, on edge of in- 
sertion), dc in top of 1 st sh of last row, * sh of 5 tc in dc between 
shs, dc in top of next sh, repeat from * twice, ch 5, dc in centre of 
5 ch loop, ch 5, dc in top of next sh, * sh in next dc, dc in top of 
next sh, repeat twice from * half sh or 3 tc in last st of 1st row. 
As the shs and loops are made in same way throughout it will not 
be necessary to give details. Half shs are made on each edge, as 

3. 3 shs, 3 loops, 3 shs. 

4. Half sh, 2 shs, 4 loops, 2 shs, half sh. 

5. 2 shs, 5 loops, 2 shs. 

6. Half sh, 1 sh, 6 loops, 1 sh, half sh. 

12 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

7. 1 sh, 7 loops, 1 sh. 

8. Half sh, 1 sh (fastened in centre of loop), 6 loops, t sh, 
half sh. Repeat back from 5th row, decreasing the diamond, then 
repeat to length desired from 2d row. 

For the scallop : 

1. Dc in last dc, ch 3, pass side of half sh, dc in next dc, * ch 
3, dc in next dc, repeat 3 times, ch 1, dc in centre of tc in half 
sh, ch 5, dc in centre of tc in next half sh, ch 1, dc in next dc, turn. 

2. 15 tc under loop of 5 ch, dc in dc of 1st row, ch 3, dc in 
next dc, turn. 

3. Ch 2, tc in 1 st of 15 tc, * ch 2, miss 1, 2 tc in next 2 tc, re- 
peat from * 3 times, ch 2, 2 tc in last tc, ch 2, tc in dc of 1st row, 
dc in dc of sh, ch 3, dc in next dc of insertion, turn. 

4. Ch 3, 3 tc in 2 tc, * ch 3, 3 tc in next 2 tc, repeat 4 times 
from *, ch 3, tc in dc of 1st row, ch 3, dc in next dc of 1st row, turn. 

5. Like 4th row, with 5 tc over 3 tc. 

6. Ch 4, 6 tc over 5 tc, * ch 4, 6 tc in next 5 tc, repeat from * 
4 times, ch 4, tc in dc of 1st row, ch 1, dc in centre of next 3 ch, 

7. Ch 4, 3 tc, 2 ch and 3 tc in 6 tc, * ch 4, 3 tc, 2 ch and 3 tc 
over 6 tc, repeat 4 times from *, ch 4, tc in dc of 6th row, dc in 
centre of next half sh, ch 3, dc in next half sh of insertion, ch 1, 
dc in next dc of insertion, * ch 3, dc in next dc, repeat from * 3 
times, form the 5 ch loop as before, turn, and repeat from 2d row of 
scallop to end. 

Border of scallop : Ch 2, dc under 4 ch of 7th row, ch 2, 6 dtc 
separated by 2 ch in each 2 ch of 7th row, ch 2, dc in loop dividing 
scallops, ch 2, dc in 4 ch of next scallop. Finish with picot edge 
of 4 ch, 1 dc under each ch around scallop. 

Heading at top of insertion : 1 tc, 3 ch and 1 tc in each dc on 

This is an original pattern, and is very pretty with the openwork 
diamond and border around scallop made of another color. The 
deep ecru which Barbour's Irish flax crochet and lace threads give 
us, with white, forms a beautiful combination. Repeat the pattern 
in width for tidies, book-covers, bedspreads, etc. 




[Contributed by Miss D. A. Dufft, 373 6th Avenue, Brooklyn, N.Y.J 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 60, ecru, 3-cord, 200- 
yards spools, and steel hook, size o. 
Ch 18 sts, turn. 

1. Miss 1, 2 dc in next 2, ch 4, make a picot by fastening back 
with 1 dc in 1st st, 5 dc in next 5, picot, 3 dc in next 3, ch 8, turn, 
sl-st in 3d of 5 dc previous, turn, 12 tc in loop, 2 dc in next 2 of 
foundation ch, picot, 3 dc in next 3, ch 7, turn. 

2. * Tc bet 2d and 3d tc of sh, ch 2, tc bet next 2, repeat 8 
times, making 9 sps in all, ch 7, * sl-st in 1st dc, (3 dc, 1 p,) 3 
times in loop, 2 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in 1st sp bet tc, 3 dc in next, 1 dc, t 
p, 2 dc in next, 3 dc in next, 1 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in next, 3 dc, ch 8, 
turn, sl-st in middle dc of 4th sp, turn, 12 tc in loop, 1 dc in 6th sp, 

Picot and Shell Lace. 

i dc, 1 p, 2 dc in next, 3 dc in next, ch 7, turn, repeat from * to *, 
fasten (always with sl-st) in middle dc of 2d sp, 3 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in 
loop, ch 7, turn, fasten in middle of last 3 dc in 1st 7 ch loop, turn, 



3 dc, i p, 2 dc in loop, ch 7, fasten bet 1st 2 p of 1st loop, turn, (3 
dc, 1 p,) 3 times in loop, 2 dc, 1 p, 3 dc, 1 p, 3 dc in last part of 
next, 2 dc, 1 p, 3 dc in next, fill 6 sps of sh as previously described, 
ch 8, fasten back, 12 tc in loop, and continue forming the sh as 
before. It will be seen that the shs are alike, hence it will be only 
necessary to describe the picot point. 

3. Ch 7, after last tc in sh count back 1 p, 3 dc, fastening in 2d 
sp, turn, 3 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in loop, ch 7, turn, miss 2 p with dc, fasten, 
3 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in loop, ch 7, turn, miss the 3 previous p counting 

Picot and Shell Insertion, 

back, and fasten bet 3d and 4th, turn, 3 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in loop, ch 7, 
miss 3 p, fasten, turn. 

4. Fill loop and remainder of succeeding loops with p and dc, as 
before, making 3 dc bet p, and 5 bet loops. Repeat sh, then make 
5 picot loops as in 3d row, missing 1 p with 1st loop, 2 with 2d, 3 
with 3d and 4th, and 4 with 5th. Fill loop as before described. 
Form sh, and repeat. 

After having made the desired length, fill 9 sps alternately with 1 
dc, 1 p, 2 dc, then 3 dc in next. Fill 7 ch loops on edge with (3 
dc, 1 p,) 4 times, 1 dc in 8th sp, 1 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in 9th, then fill large 
loop, and so continue. 

For the edge, fasten thread at last end of row, in 2d p of loop, ch 
1, dc in next p, * ch 7, dc in 2d p of next loop, ch 1, dc in next p, 


and repeat from*. Next row, tc in a st, ch i, tc in next, and 

The insertion is made by forming the shs, with loop of 7 on each 
side, finishing the edge as described for lace. 

This lace is durable, and effective for many purposes. Carried out 
in coarser thread, No. 35 or No. 40, it finishes a linen scarf hand- 

The insertion also makes a very pretty tidy, omitting the tc edge, 
if desired, and connect with loops of chs, under which to run ribbons. 


[Contributed by Henrietta Rossiter, Muskegon, Mich.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 60, 3-cord, 200-yards 
spools, and steel hook, size 1. A spool makes one yard. 
Ch 30 sts, turn. 

1. Dc in 9th st from hook, * ch 5, miss 2, dc in next, repeat 
from * 6 times, turn. 

2. Ch 6, dc in 3d of 5 ch, * ch 5, dc in 3d of next 5 ch, repeat 
from * 5 times, ch 5, dc in 3d of 8 ch, turn. 

3. Ch 7, dc in 3d of 1st 5 ch, * ch 5, dc in 3d of next 5 ch, 
repeat from * 5 times, ch 5, dc in 3d of 6 ch, turn. 

4. Ch 6, dc in 3d of 5 ch, * ch 2, dc in 3d of next 5 ch, repeat 
from * 5 times, ch 2, dc in 3d of 7 ch, turn. 

5. Ch 3, 1 tc in each of next 24 sts of 4th row, ch 9, sc in 
same st with last dc, turn. 

6. Ch 3, tc in 1st 3 sts of 9 ch, 2 tc in 4th st, 3 tc in 5th st, 2 
tc in 6th, 1 tc in next 3 sts, ch 3, sc in top of tc, ch 6, miss 2 tc, dc 
in next, * ch 5, miss 2 tc, dc in next, repeat from * 5 times, ch 5, 
miss 2, dc in top of 3 ch, turn. 

7. Like 3d row to scallop; ch 2, 1 tc in 1st tc, * ch 2, 1 tc in 
next tc, repeat from * 5 times, ch 2, 1 tc in same st as last tc, ch 
2, tc in next tc, repeat from * 5 times, ch 3, dc in same st as last 
dc of 3d row, turn. 



8. Ch 6, tc under ist 2 ch, * ch 4, tc under last tc made and 
tc under next 2 ch, repeat from * 1 1 times, ch 6. dc in same st as 
last dc of 7th row, finish like 2d row. 

Barred Lace. 

g. Like 3d row. 

Repeat from 2d row. When making the 6 ch on last row of 
scallop, join the 4th st to 4th st of 6 ch on preceding scallop by sc. 
Make an edge along top of lace by working one dc in ist dc, ch 4, 
dc in next dc, * ch 4, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next, ch 4, dc in 
next, ch 4, dc in next, repeat from * to the end. 

Although a simple pattern, this is a very useful lace, being rapidly 
made and of any desired width. The design is original. 




[Contributed by Miss Kathryn Plunkett, 132 Academy Street, Jersey City, N.J.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, in balls, or 3-cord, 200- 
yards spools, No. 50, and steel hook, size o. 
Ch 50 sts, turn. 

1. Tc in 3d st, ch 2, tc in same st, * ch 2, miss 1, dc in next, 
eh 2, miss 1, tc in next, ch 4, miss 3, tc in next, repeat from * 4 
times, tc in next st, turn. 

2. Ch 2, tc on tc, * ch 2, dc under centre of 4 ch, ch 2, tc on 
next tc, ch 4, tc on next tc, repeat 4 times from *, making shell 
of 6 tc in 2 ch at end, turn. 

3. Ch 2, tc bet 3d and 4th tc of sh, ch 2, tc in same place, ch 
2, dc under 4 ch, ch 2, tc in next tc, ch 4, tc in next tc, ch 2, dc 

Czarina Lace 

under 4 ch, ch 2, tc in tc, ch 4, 4 tc under 4 ch, ch 4, tc in next tc, 
ch 2, dc under 4 ch, ch 2, tc in next tc, ch 4, tc in next tc, ch 2, dc 
under 4 ch, ch 2 ; tc in tc, ch 4, 2 tc in tc at end, turn. 

18 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

4. Ch 2, tc on tc, repeat from * to * in 2d row twice, ch 2, dc 
under 4 ch, ch 2, 6 tc over 4 tc, repeat twice from * to *, the last 
tc being 1st of sh of 6 tc under 2 ch in top of previous sh, turn. 

5. Like 3d row to 6 tc, over which make 8 tc, then finish like 
3d row. 

6. Like 4th row, putting 6 tc over middle 6 of 8 tc. 

7. Ch 2, 2 tc separated by 2 ch between 3d and 4th tc of sh, ch 
2, dc under 4 ch, ch 2, tc in tc, ch 4, 4 tc under 4 ch, ch 4, 4 tc in 
middle of 6 tc, ch 4, 4 tc over next 4 ch, ch 4, tc in next tc, ch 2, 
fasten under 4 ch, ch 2, tc in tc, ch 4, 2 tc at end, turn. 

8. Ch 2, tc in tc, * ch 2, fasten, ch 2, tc in tc, ch 4, tc in next 
tc, ch 2, fasten, ch 2, 6 tc over 4 tc, repeat from *, ch 2, fasten, ch 
2, tc in tc, ch 4, sh of 6 tc under 2 ch, turn. 

9. Ch 2, 2 tc separated by 2 ch between 3d and 4th of sh, * ch 
2, fasten, ch 2, tc in tc, ch 4, 8 tc over 6 tc, ch 4, tc in tc, repeat 
from *, ch 2, fasten, ch 2, tc in tc, ch 4, 2 tc at end, turn. 

10. Like 8th row. 

11. Like 7 th row. 

12. Like 4th row. 

13. Like 5th row. 

Continue until the lace is of desired length. For the scallop : 
10 dtc under loop between 2d and 3d sh, * ch 6, turn; 3 tc in 1st 
2 sts of ch, 2 dtc in next 2, fasten in 2d dtc of large sh, repeat from 
* 4 times, fasten in last loop. This completes a scallop. Make 
insertion by having both edges alike. This is an original design, 
and a beautiful lace for pillow-cases, aprons, window-shades, etc. 


[Contributed by Mrs. A. O. L. Wertman, Tanncrsville, Pa.] 

Materials : 2 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 40, 3 -cord, 
200-yards spools, and a steel hook, size 1. 
Ch 8, join. 

1. Ch 5, 9 tc separated by 2 ch, in ring, ch 2, join to 3d of 5 ch. 

2. Ch 3, tc in sp, ch 3, tc in tc, ch 3, tc in tc, ch 3, dtc in tc ? 



ch 3, dtc (2) in tc, ch 3, dtc (3) in tc, ch 3, dtc (4) in tc, ch 3, 
dtc (3) in tc, ch 3, dtc (2) in tc, ch 3, dtc in tc, ch 3, tc in tc, ch 
3, tc in tc, ch 3, 2 dc in sp. Do not turn, but work ahead. In the 




*% m fl M 

1 f f 


% 1 

r 1 

A \3 







I 1 



)OK NO. 5 


^f #1 W 

barbour's prize needle work series, bc 

Scarf Lace. 

row, the figure in parentheses following dtc indicates the number 
times extra the thread is put over hook. 

3. Work 7 dc close tog in sp, ch 10, fasten back in 1st dc (in 
doing this take needle from st, insert in place designated, and draw 
st through, forming a sl-st), fill this ch with dc, 5 dc in sp, ch io ; 



fasten back in 3d last dc of 1st scallop, fill ch with dc, 3 dc in sp, ch 
10, fasten back in 6th last dc of 2d scallop, fill with dc, * 3 dc in sp, 
ch 12, fasten in 9th last dc of last scallop, fill ch full of dc, repeat 
from * 3 times, 1 dc in very centre of edge in longest sp, ch 20, 
fasten back in 12th last dc, fill with dc, making centre and longest 
scallop. Work other side to match ; at top, where you join, sc half 

Scarf Insertion. 

up i st scallop, ch 10, fasten back on centre of last scallop, fill with 
dc, and fasten off neatly. 

For figure above medallion, around forefinger of left hand wind 
thread 10 times, 1 dc to hold threads together, join to top of medal- 
lion, 5 dc in ring, wind another ring, 8 dc in this, fasten on 1st 
scallop of medallion, and fill ring with dc ; now, * 5 dc in 1st ring, 
wind a ring, 8 dc in that, join to last ring made, and fill with dc ; 
repeat from * 4 times, 5 dc on centre ring. The last ring is joined 
to medallion as 2d on opposite side, or by sewing, if preferred. 

When a sufficient number of these ornaments are made, join 


together by 3d and 6th rings, counting as made, either by sewing or 
crocheting when worked. For the heading : 

Fasten in 2d ring from medallion, ch 11, catch in 6th dc of next 
ring, ch 5, sl-st in 6th of 11 ch, ch 11, catch in top of same ring, 
ch 9, catch in top of next ring, ch 15, catch in 6th dc of same ring, 
ch 6, catch in 7th of 16 ch, catch loops of 6 ch each in centre of 
next 3 rings, between joinings, catching all loops together in centre, 
then ch 9, catch in top of ring, and so work across. Next row, tc in 
1 st st, ch 4, tc under 9 ch, ch 4, tc in dc fastening 9 ch, ch 4, tc 
under 9 ch, and so on. For last row, ch 10, fasten over 2d tc, fill 
with dc, work 5 dc on ch 4, between tc of last row, 5 dc on next 4 
ch, ch 8, fasten back in 5th last dc of previous scallop, fill with dc 
and work 5 dc on foundation, repeat across. Insertion is made of 
rings with heading on both sides. If desired, the rings may be filled 
with a little " spider " as in needle-work. 

This lace is quickly made, very handsome and durable, resem- 
bling the popular reticella. 


[Contributed by Miss B. C. Anderson, Beulah, Oklahoma.] 

Materials: Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 50, 3-cord, 200-yards 
spools, steel hook, size o, and invisible hairpin with straight prongs. 

Daintv Lace. 

22 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

Make first the hairpin braid, for which complete directions are 
found in No. 2 of the Prize Series. When work is started, clip the 
closed end and thus avoid having to slip braid off pin and replace 
last few sts. 

1. Catch thread in 1st loop of braid with one dc, * ch 9, miss 1 
loop, dc in next, ch 5, dc in 3d loop, ch 5, dc in 3d loop (always 
counting from last dc), ch 12, dc in 2d loop, ch 5, fasten back with 

i dc in 6th st from last 
dc, * ch 5, dc in 4th 
loop, ch 5, fasten back 
in same 6th st, repeat 
from * 5 times, ch 3, 
fasten in 9th st of 12 
ch, ch 3, dc in 2d loop, 
ch 2, dc in 3d st of 5 
ch, ch 2, dc in 3d loop, 

Dainty Insertion. ch 3, dc in 3d of 9 ch, 

ch 3, dc in 6th st of 9 
ch, ch 3, dc in 2d loop, dc in each of next 7 loops, repeat from 1st * 
to length desired. 

2. Beginning on other side of braid, * ch 4, dc in 2d loop, 
repeat 15 times, make star like that on other side, beginning with 
5 ch, and work around with the 4 ch loops caught in 2d loop. A 
row (or 2 rows if liked) of the same chain loops completes the 

Insertion : 1. Fasten in 7th loop, ch 3, * tc in 2d loop, repeat 
from * 6 times, join with 1 dc in 1st tc, ch 3, turn. 

2. In opposite loop, across braid, make 1 dc, ch 3, turn work 
from left to right so that next 3 loops will be in position to crochet 
together with corresponding 3 loops of 7 at beginning, miss 1 loop, 
crochet next together with 5 th loop (at beginning) with 1 tc, miss 
1, crochet next together with 3d with 1 tc, * 1 tc in 2d loop, repeat 
4 times, making the 7 tc, fasten, ch 3, turn, dc in 2d loop. 

3. Crossing the braid to opposite side, proceed as directed, 
holding work so next 4 loops opposite last 2 tc in 1st row can be 
crocheted together. Continue to length desired. 


This lace and insertion is extremely effective as a trimming for 
many articles, and particularly pretty if ecru and white are used in 
combination, making the braid of white. Dtc may be used instead 
of tc in the insertion, if desired. This Maltese braid is rapidly 
made, and may be formed into doilies, etc., with little trouble. 
Made of No. 25 or No. 30 of Barbour's Irish flax thread, it is a 
most desirable and unique braid for Battenburg work, in combina- 
tion with lace sts. 


[Contributed by Mrs. M. E. Bates, Muskegon, Mich.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 90, 3-cord, 200-yards 
spools, ecru, and steel needles No. 16. One spool makes a yard of 
the lace. 

Cast on 56 sts. 

1. K 3, o, k 1, o, k 1, n, p 1, n, k 3, n, p 1, n, k 1, o, k 1, o, 
k 4, (o, k 3 tog, o, k 5,) 3 times, o, k 3 tog, o, k 4, on last st k 1, 
make 1. 

2. K 5, n, (o, k 1 twisted, o, n, k 3, n,) 3 times, o, k 1 twd, o, 
n, k 3, p 5, k 1, p 5, k 1, p 5, k 3. 

3. K 3, o, k 3, o, (n, p 1,) 3 times, n, o, k 3, o, k 3, n, (o, k 1 
twd, o, n, n, o, k 1, n,) 3 times, o, k 1 twd, o, n, n, o, k 3. 

4. K 2, n, knitting the loop of the i( over " with the st you narrow, 
p 1 on loop, then, still keeping the loop on left-hand needle, n 
again, thus knitting loop 3 times, but making only 1 st of it. (N, o, 
k 1 twd, o,) 4 times, n, k 3, p 6, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 6, k 3. 

5. K 3, o, k 5, o, si, n and b, p 1, si, n and b, o, k 5, o, k 2, n, 
(o, k 3, o, n, k 1, n,) 3 times, o, k 3, o, n, k 1, n 3 tog. 

6. K.3, o, (n, k 1, n, o, k 3, o,) 3 times, n, k 1, n, o, k 3, p 8, 
k 1, p 8, k 3. 

7. K 3, o 2, k 1, n, p 1, n, k 1, o, si, n and b, o, k 1, n, p 1, 
n, k 1, o 2, k 1, n, (o, k 5, o, k 3 tog,) 4 times. 

8. (K 1 twd, o, n, k 3, n, o,) 4 times, k 3, p 3, k 1, p 7, k 1, p 3, 
k 4 . 

24 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

g. K 3, o, k i, o, k i, n, p i, n, k 3, n, p 1, n, k 1, o, k 1, o, k 
2, (o, n, n, o, k 1, n, o, k 1 twd,) 4 times. 

10. K loop in border like 4th row. (K 1 twd, o, n, n, p 1, n, 
n, o ? ) 4 times, o, k 2, o, p 5, k 1, p 5, k 1, p 5, k 3. 

Mary E. Bates Lace. 

11. K 3, o, k 3, o, n, p 1, m p i, a, p 1, n, o, k 3, o, (k 3, o, n, 

k 1, n, o,) 3 times, k 3, o, n, k 1, n, o, k 1, on last st k 1, make 1. 

12. K 2, n, (o, k 3, o, n, k 1, n,) 3 times, o, k 3, o, n, k 2, p 6, 
k i, p 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 6, k 3. 

13. K 3, o, k 5, o, si, n and b, p 1, si, n and b, o, k 5, o, k 4, 
(o, k 3 tog, o, k 5,) 3 times, o, k 3 tog, o, k 3, on last st k 1, make 2. 


14. K 5, n, (o, k 1 twd, o, n, k 3, n,) 3 times, o, k 1 twd, o, n, 
k 3, p 8, k 1, p 8, k 3. 

15. K 3,0 2,k 1, n,p 1, n, k 1, o, si, n and b, o, k 1, n, p 1, 
n, k 1, o 2, k 3, n, (o, k 1 twd, o, n, n, o, k 1, n,) 3 times, o, k 1 
twd, o, n, n, o, k 3. 

16. K 2, n, p 1, n, n, (o, k 1 twd, o, n, n, p 1, n, n,) 3 times, 
o, k 1 twd, o, n, k 4, p 3, k 1, p 7, k 1, p 3, k 4. 

17. K 3, o, k 1, o, k 1, n, p 1, n, k 3, n, p 1, n, k 1, o, k 1, o, 
k 2, n, (o, k 3, o, n, k 1, n,) 3 times, o, k 3, o, n, k 1, k 3 tog. 

18. K 3, o, (n, k 1, n, o, k 3, o,) 3 times, n, k 1, n, o, k 3, p 5, 
k 1, p 5, k 1, p 5, k 3. 

19. K 3, o, k 3, o, n, p 1, n, p 1, n, p 1, n, o, k 3, o, k 1, n, 
(o, k 5, o, k 3 tog,) 4 times. 

20. (K 1 twd, o, n, k 3, n, o,) 4 times, k 2, p 6, k 1, p 1, k 1, 
p 1, k 1, p 6, k 3. 

21. K 3, o, k 5, o, si, d and b, p 1, si, n and b, o, k 5, o, k 2, 
(o, n, n, o, k 1, n, o, k 1 twd,) 4 times. 

22. (K 1 twd, o, n, n, p 1, n, n, o,) 4 times, k 2, p 8, k 1, p 8, 

23. K 3, o 2, k i, n, p 1, n, k 1, o, si, n and b, k 1, n, p 1, 
n, k 1, o 2, (k 3, o, n, k 1, n, o,) 4 times, k 1, on last st k 1 and 
make 2. 

24. K 3, n, (o, k 3, o, n, k 1, n,) 3 times, o, k 3, o, n, k 3, p 3, 
k 1, p 7, k 1, p 3, k 4. 

Repeat from 1st row. To " k 3 tog " slip first stitch to right- 
hand needle, draw 3d stitch over middle stitch, then the stitch on 
right-hand needle over middle stitch, leaving one stitch on left 
needle, and twist it before knitting it. " N 3 tog " is knitted in 
usual way. 

The beauty, of this lace can hardly be shown by an illustration. 
I have it in use on a linen lawn waist, ecru, worn over a black lin- 
ing. It is cascaded down the front in two full rows with the inser- 
tion — upper part of lace — in the middle ; two very full pieces 
are over the sleeves at the shoulder, and the insertion is inside the 
collar, with lace border falling outside. For other uses coarser 
thread may be chosen. 

26 barbour's prize needle-work series. 


[Contributed by Mrs. R. A. Hawkins, Okolona, Miss.] 

xVIaterials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 100 and No. 120, 3- 
cord, 200-yards spools, steel hook, size 00, 2 hairpins, y 2 inch and 
% inch between prongs, and a strip of fine linen 1^ inches wide, 
and as long as desired to make the lace. 

Directions for making the braid will be found in Book No. 4, 
page 31. Six yards will be sufficient for 1 yard of lace. Fasten in 

Maltese Lace. 

loop at end of braid, ch 1, put hook through loop from under 
side, pull thread through loop and st on hook, and repeat to form 
ch on both sides of braid. Use No. 120 thread, with large pin. 
Make a pattern, with deep scallops, baste the braid on it, fasten- 
ing neatly wherever it laps or comes together, turn raw edge of 
linen strip in, double it and baste along top edge of scallops, join- 
ing where it touches the braid. Fill in the scallops with the spider- 
web or wheel sts, the top wheel made partially on the linen strip. 


Make the purling on the small pin with No. 120 thread, with 1 dc 
in loop instead of 2. Take lace carefully from the pattern, and 
overhand purling to scallops, catching in each st. Sew a strip of 
the braid to upper part of linen, and press between cloths with 
moderately hot iron. 

This pattern illustrates in a simple way the use of the Maltese 
braid in " modern lace making." Made in the fine thread, the lace 
is very dainty. In No. 40, with wheels of No. 35, it is very desir- 
able for trimming bureau or sideboard scarfs. If desired, a strip of 
the new Ulster braid may be substituted for the strip of linen. Try 
making the braid of white and wheels of ecru. For the benefit of 
those who may not be able to procure the size of pin wanted, will 
say that I took knitting needles of proper size, held centre over a 
lighted lamp, and when hot brought the ends together. This makes 
a nice, long pin. 


[Contributed by Miss Lena Thatcher, Frankfort, N.J.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 50, 3-cord, 200 yards 
spools, and sewing needle large enough to carry the thread. 

Wind thread around a lead-pencil 7 times, slip off, and work around 
ring with close buttonhole stitch 20 times, turn; work back with 4 
open buttonhole sts over 8 sts, missing alternate sts and leaving a 
little loop of thread between, not drawing up tight ; next row, work 
under each loop, 3 sts in all, then 2, then 1 ; this forms a point. 
Break thread, repeat 5 times, then make 6 rings without points by 
winding in same way, working 20 sts over, and fastening off securely. 
Join these to pointed rings in process of making, or afterwards by a 
few fine sts. Have points come inside of wheel, and join under 
small ring. Make as many wheels as wanted, joining in any 
desired arrangement with " spiders " or other simple lace sts. A 
row of wheels makes a pretty lace. For the straight heading, make 
a row of open sts back and forth till open space between wheels is 


barbour's prize needle-work series. 

filled, then a row of close buttonhole st. One spool makes i J^ 
yards of this lace, or if placed in Vandykes, S/% yard. For a scarf, 
different arrangements may be made for each end. Apply the lace 

Scarf End. 

and buttonhole closely to the material, cutting it away beneath. 
These wheels are effective for many purposes which will suggest 
themselves, and especially so made of coarse thread. No. 35 or 
No. 40 makes a handsome finish for a linen sideboard scarf. 
Besides being so durable, the Irish flax thread has a rich, lustrous 
appearance which is of itself ornamental. 




[Contributed by Ella Bottorff, Corydon, Ind.] 

Materials : Barbour's Ulster etching flax, size 4, 10 skeins, Nos. 
20 and 21, for leaves, and 5 skeins, No. no, for the roses, with 
steel hook, size 3. 

Ch 22 sts, turn. 

1 st leaf: 10 dc, turn ; dc in 1st, tc in next 2, tc and dtc in next, 

Rose Mat. 

2 dtc in next 2, dtc and tc in next, tc in next 2, dc in next, dc in 
tip, and work other side the same as 1st \ turn, ch 2, dc in 1st st, ch 

BO barbour's prize needle-work series. 

2, dc in next, and repeat around, makings dc with 2 ch between in 
tip of leaf. This forms the serrate edge, and is worked with shade 
21, the centres of leaves with shade 20, and the stems with shade 21. 
Finish with 1 dc in stem chain, turn. 2d leaf: Ch 21, turn; dc in 
12 sts, turn; ch 1, dc in 1st st, tc in next, tcand dtc in next, 2 dtc in 
next 6, 2 tc in next, tc in next, dc in next, dc in tip, ch 2, dc in tip, 
other side same, dc at base, make notched edge same as 1st leaf, then 
dc in next 9 sts on ch. 3d leaf: Ch 12, turn ; dc in 10, and proceed 
like 1st leaf, then dc to end of ch. This completes the rose-leaf. 

The roses are made exactly as are those in the beautiful " Rose 
and Leaf Doily," in No 4, from which, and the " Rose Spray 
Applique," in No. 3, I took my idea for the mat, combining the two. 
After the roses and leaves are made, place in position desired and 
fasten with needle and thread. An illustration can scarcely convey 
an idea of the beauty of this mat, which is especially charming placed 
under a rose bowl. If desired, ecru flax thread, No. 25, maybe used 
instead of the shade no etching flax, but the rich coloring and lustre 
of the floss give a particularly lovely effect. 


[Contributed by Mrs. A. Gamble, 99 St. Francois Street, Quebec, Canada.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, ecru, No. 40, 3-cord, 200- 
yards spools, or in balls, as preferred, steel hook, size 1. Three 
spools will be sufficient for a large tidy. 

1. Ch 10, join. 

22 dc in ring, join to 1st dc. 

3. Ch 5, 21 dtc with 1 ch between in dc of last round, join 
to 4th of 5 ch. 

4. A picot (5 ch, 1 dcin 1st st of ch), 1 dc in 1st dtc of last 
round, repeat 20 times. 

This completes the wheel, which is joined by a picot in working 
last round to corresponding picots on other wheels. It is useful for 
many purposes, for bedspreads, trimming for shades, scarfs, etc. 
For the loops between wheels, ch 5, catch in centre picot between 



joining of ist wheel, ch 4, sc in 1st st of 5 ch, ch 5, fasten in cor- 
responding picot of next wheel, ch 4, fasten back as before, repeat 
twice and fasten off. Allow me to suggest the beauty and richness 

Wheel Tidy. 

of laces made with the coarser numbers of the Irish flax thread. I 
have a beautiful lunch-cloth finished with lace and insertion of No. 
25. We think here that lace is much richer and more effective when 
the coarser threads are used. 


barbour's prize needle-work series, 


[Contributed by Estella. Ball, Talmage, Kansas.] 

Materials: Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 50, white, 3-cord, 
200-yards spools, steel hook, size o, and a yard of ribbon one-half 
inch wide. 

Infant's Bib. 

Ch 45 sts, turn. Miss 3, tc in each of 20 sts, 3 in next, tc in 
each of 20, ch 3, turn. Make 15 rows in this way, putting tc in 
each tc, 3 in middle st, and ch 3 to turn. Catch in back of st to 
make ridges. Break thread. Make ch of 3^ inches (for half the 
neck), attach to narrow side, work dc all around, make ch of 3^4 
inches for other half of neck. Continue dc for 5 rows, widening at 
corners to make work smooth, and taking up only back loops. 
Next, make a row of dtc, missing 2 sts, and making 2 ch between 

Barbour's Prize Needle-Work, Series No. 5 


Sec . j0£& 

That all ff$\\*$- 

your ,/ 

Linen -jjL. 



this Trade-Mark 

Barbour's Prize Needle-Work, Series No. 5. 

Scarf, With Trumpet Flower Design. 

MATERIALS.— Barbour's Ulster Rope Linen Floss, 3 skeins 
of No. 4, 2 of No. 4^, 3 each of No. 5, No. 20, No. 21 
and No. 44, strip of light brown overshot linen 18 x 52 
inches, and steel crochet hook, size 2. 

AVING the design prepared, proceed with the em- 
broidery as shown by the engraving, filling the 
centre of flowers with French knots. While the 
shading and stitches are so plainly indicated by 
the engraving, and the style of work so simple that even the 
most inexperienced needleworker will not hesitate to undertake 
it, nothing more effective than this scarf can be imagined. 
Bold and striking in design and coloring, it conserves the best 
of taste, and will be found in perfect harmony with almost 
any furnishing. The linen is finished with a narrow hem, 
over which a fringe is drawn in two or three threads at a time, 
with the crotchet hook, using the same shades of floss as indi- 
cated for the embroidery. When completed, brush out and 
clip the ends of fringe to even it, and press the embroidery as 
directed in other descriptions. Any material liked may be 
chosen instead of the overshot linen. A tan denim would give 
a charming effect, as would also a linen in natural flax color. 
Barbour's Ulster Floss works almost equally well on any 
material and for any purpose. 


Linen Thread carries 

This Trade Mark. 



each, except at corners, miss only i for 4 times. Make three rows 
of dc, and for the border, ch 5, * miss 4, 2 tc, ch 1, 2 tc in next st, 
forming shell, ch 1, and repeat from * around bib and across ends 
of tab. Go around neck with * 1 dc, ch 1, miss 2, sh of 2 tc, 1 ch 
and 2 tc in next, ch 1, miss 2, and repeat from ■*. Make shs across 
other tab end, as before; then in 1st sh on edge, * 2 tc, 3 picots 
and 2 tc under 1 ch, ch 1, dc under 1 ch between shs, and repeat. 
The picots are of * 4 ch, 1 dc in 1st st, repeat twice from *. Run 
ribbon in the spaces formed by dtc, leaving ends in back to tie. 

Although so simple, this little bib is extremely dainty. One spool 
of the thread is sufficient, and the only kind I find suitable is Bar- 
bour's, which is soft and smooth, and will always launder well. By 
choosing coarser or finer thread, size may be varied. 


[Contributed by Mrs. T. H. Howley, No. 13 Maple Street, Newton, Mass.] 

Materials : Barbour's flax macrame, and steel hook, size 2. 

Child's Waist. 

Chain 48 sts, turn. Make 24 rows in dc, working back and forth, 
with 1 ch to turn, and taking whole upper link of each st. In 25 th 

34 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

row leave space for armhole, working 14 rows of 38 sts. After 14th 
row, make a ch as long as the strip to go over arm is wanted, work 
back on this and down front, make 6 rows. In the model 68 sts 
were used for shoulder-strap. Work back and forth across front, 30 
rows. If desired, the waist may be slightly narrowed at the bottom 
by using a smaller hook for 10 or 12 sts. Make other side same as 
1 st, working straight across or beginning at other edge and join- 
ing in the middle of front, as preferred. The buttonholes are made 
by missing 3 or 4 sts, working over the ch made same length in next 
row. Finish edge and straps with a little scallop of 1 dc in 1st st, 
ch 3, tc in 1st st of ch, dc in 3d st of foundation from last. Sew on 
buttons where wanted, and join straps according to size of arm. 
This waist is large enough for a child two years old, but may be 
made as much larger as desired. It is a great support, always cool, 
easily laundered, and practically indestructible. 


[Contributed by Mrs. H. D. Plant, 206 Lewis Avenue, Brooklyn, N.Y.] 

Materials : A spool of Barbour's Irish flax thread, ecru, No. 6o ? 
for crocheting, and No. ioo, for sewing, crochet hook, size o, and 5- 
inch square of scrim or linen. 

Ch 9, join. 

1. Ch 5, 1 tc in each st of ch, each separated by 2 ch, ch 2, join 
to 3d of 5 ch. 

2. Sc around next 2 ch, ch 4, 3 tc drawn tog at top by working 
off all at once in same 2 ch, * ch 4, 4 tc drawn tog at top around 
next 2 ch, repeat from * 9 times, then ch 2, 1 tc in top of 1st 3 tc. 

3. Ch 9, fasten under next 4 ch, repeat 10 times, and fasten off 
neatly. Make 14 rosettes or " daisies " as described, join each at 
2 points to the preceding one, leaving 2 ch loops at inner edge 
and 5 at outer to form the circle ; then on inner edge work 5 dc 
around each ch loop. On outside loop work as follows : ch 9, 
fasten around next- ch for 4 rows, increasing the number of loops 



I or 2 on each daisy by working twice under i loop in order to 
increase circumference and keep the work flat. Baste the square of 
scrim on a piece of stiff paper on which has been drawn a perfect 

Daisy Doily. 

circle 5 inches in diameter, baste the inner edge of the daisy circle 
carefully on the scrim along this line, fell with No. 100 thread in 
close sts, then rip from paper and cut scrim from under the crochet 
work. This also makes a very pretty pincushion cover, and a com- 
plete toilet set may be made to match. The number of thread may 
be varied to suit the purpose of the work. 

36 barbour's prize needle-work series. 


[Contributed by Carrie L. Holcomb, Cairo, N.Y.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 25, 3-cord, 200-yards 
spools, and steel hook, size 3. 
Make a ch of 51 sts. 

1. 1 dc in 2d st of ch, 1 dc in each of next 49 sts, making 50 
dc in all, 2 dc in last st you made 1 dc in, on other side of ch, 1 dc 
in each of next 49 sts, fasten with sc in 1st dc made, ch 1, turn. 

2. Dc in last dc of last row, putting hook in back loop of st to 
form a rib, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 47 sts, 2 in next, 1 dc in 
next, 2 in next on the end, 1 in next on other side, 2 in next, 1 in 
each of 47, 2 in last, fasten in 1st dc of this row, ch 1, turn. 

3. Dc in each of 1st 2 dc, 2 dc in next, 1 in each of 48 sts, 2 in 
next, 1 in each of next 2, 2 dc in next, on end, 1 in each of next 2, 
2 in next, 1 in each of next 48, 2 in next, 1 in each of next 2, fasten 
as before, ch 1, turn. 

4. Dc in each of 1st 3 sts, 2 in next, 1 in each of 48, 2 in next, 
1 in each of next 3, 2 in next, at end, 1 in each of next 3, 2 in next, 
1 in each of 48, 2 in next, 3 in each of next 3, fasten. 

Continue working as described until you have 24 ribs, being care- 
ful to always widen with 2 dc in 1 of the dc belonging to the last 
widening, also to take up the back loop and form the rib. 

For the border : 1. Ch 6, miss 1, dc in each of next 4, * ch 5, 
miss 2, dc in each of next 4, repeat from * around 1st corner, 
then * ch 5, miss 3, dc in each of next 4, repeat from last * across 
side to next corner, * ch 5, miss 2, dc in each of next 4, repeat from 
* all around end, make other side like 1st, and finish end as de- 
scribed. It may be necessary sometimes to miss more sts, or use 
same st twice, as the sts may not come out even in all sizes of mats. 
One must use judgment. 

2. Ch 3, * dc in 2d and 3d of 4 dc, ch 3, 4 tc under 5 ch, ch 3, 
repeat all around, sc in each st of 3 ch at beginning. 

3. Dc in top of each of 4 tc, * ch 5, dc in top of 4 tc, repeat, ch 
5, and join with sc. 



Table Mats. 

4. Ch 1, dc in 2d and 3d dc, * ch 3, 4 tc under 5 ch, ch 3, dc 
in 2d and 3d dc of previous row, repeat, and make sc in each st of 
3 ch at beginning. 

38 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

5. Like 3d row. 

6. Like 4th row. 

7. Dc in top of each of 4 tc, * ch 5, dc in each of 4 tc, repeat 
from * around 1st corner, ch 4, dc in each of 4 tc, across side, then 
ch 5, dc in each of 4 tc around end to next side, make this like 1st 
side, and end like beginning, ch 5, and join. 

8. Tc in each st all around mat ; when going around the 6 
corners it will be necessary to widen by making 2 tc in same st 
several times. No definite rule can be given for this, there is such 
a difference in the method of work ; just enough widening should be 
made to have the mat lie smooth and even. 

9. Ch 3 for 1st st, 1 tc in each of next 8 tc, * ch 5, miss 5, 1 
dc in each of next 9 sts, ch 5, miss 4, 1 tc in each of 9 sts, repeat 
from *, and join. 

10. Ch 4, 1 tc in each of next 8 tc with 1 ch between each, * ch 
5, 8 dc in 9 dc, ch 5, 1 tc with 1 ch between in each of 9 tc, repeat 
through row, and join. 

11. Ch 5, 1 tc in each of 8 tc with 2 ch between, * ch 5,7 dc 
in 8 dc, ch 5, 1 tc with 2 ch between in each of 8 tc, repeat. 

12. Like nth row, with 5 dc in 7 dc. 

13. Ch 6, 1 tc in each of 8 tc with 3, ch between, ch 5, 3 dc in 
5 dc, * ch 5, 1 tc with 3 ch between in each tc, ch 5, 3 dc in 5 dc, 

14. Like 13th row, putting 1 dc between 1st and 2d dc. 

15. Sc in 1st 2 sts of 3 ch, * ch 5, sc in 2d st of 5 ch, forming a 
picot, ch 2, dc in centre of next 3 ch, repeat from * 6 times, make 
a picot, dc under 5 ch, ch 4, dc under next 5 ch, and continue 
through the row. 

There are 5 mats in the set, a large one with 80 sts for the centre, 
and having 40 ribs, 2 having 24 ribs, like that described, and 2 with 
35 sts and 24 ribs. Six spools of thread will be required. The mats 
are prettier if worked tightly. 



[Contributed by Miss Carrie Finxh, Keesville, N.Y.] 
[Illustrated on page 43.] 

Materials : 2 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 40, 3-cord, 
200-yards spools, and steel hook, size 1. 

Ch 8, join. Ch 3 for a tc, fill ring with tc, join, ch 3 again, and 
make 5 rows of tc, widening to keep the work flat. Begin each row 
with 3 ch, and join at end. 

6. 22 groups of 4 tc each, with 1 ch between. 

7. 4 tc, ch 1,4 tc, ch 2, and repeat. 

8. 9, 10. Same as 7th row, only with chsof 3, 4, and 5 over ch 2. 
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17. Same, increasing 1 st of ch each 

time, and with 2 ch instead of 1 between points; in 17th row, 3 ch. 
18. Ch 11, 4 tc, ch 2, 1 tc under 3 ch, ch 2, 4 tc, and repeat. 
The points now begin to decrease, making 1 less st in ch between 4 
tc each time, and 1 more loop of 2 ch, or sp ; in the 28th row the 
groups of 4 tc are separated by 1 ch, and 12 sps between. 

29. 4 tc on tc, 1 in ch, 4 on tc, then 13 sps. 

30. 6 tc in centre of 9, 14 sps. 

31. 5 tc in centre of 6, 15 sps; decrease to 4 tc, then to 2, with 
17 sps. Last row of 198 sps. 

Border: Ch 7, miss a sp, dc in next, and repeat. Next row, 2 
tc separated by 7 ch in each loop of 7 ch, 1 ch between. Next, 
sh of 3 tc, 2 ch and 3 tc under each loop of ch ; 2 tc separated by 
7 ch in each sh, then a picot edge of 3 dc under 7 ch, 3 picots of 5 
ch each, caught in 1st st of ch, 3 dc under 7 ch, 1 dc between, 
and repeat. 

This is an original design, and thought very pretty. If desired it 
may be made in coarse flax thread, for a table-mat. 


[Contributed by Mrs. G. M. Bkyson, Key West, Florida.] 

Materials : 3 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, white, No. 60, 
3-cord, 200-yards spools, steel hook, size 0,1^ yards ribbon, 1^ 

40 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

inches wide, and 3 plush balls, or ends of ribbon may be fringed, if 

Ch 350 sts, turn. 

1. Miss 4, * tc in next 4 sts of foundation ch, ch 6, miss 6, dc 
in each of next 6 sts, ch 6, miss 6, and repeat from * making 15 
" pineapples " in all ; ch 4 at end, and go down other side of ch in 
same way, putting tc in tc, dc in dc, etc. 

2. After last 4 tc, ch 2, 2 tc separated by 2 ch under turning ch 
of 1st row, ch 2, * 3 tc on 4 tc (between 1st and 2d, 2d and 3d, 3d 
and 4th,) ch 6, 5 dc on 6 dc, ch 6, and repeat from *, turning at 
end as described and going down other side. 

3. (Ch 2, and 1 tc under 2 ch,) 4 times, putting 2 tc under 
centre 2 ch, ch 2, * 2 tc in 1st of 3 tc, 1 in 2d, ch 2, 1 tc in same 
place and 2 tc in 3d tc, ch 6, 4 dc in 5 dc, ch 6, and repeat from 
* turning as described. 

4. (Ch 2, 1 tc under 2 ch,) 6 times, putting 2 tc under centre 
ch, ch 2, * 3 tc on 3 tc, ch 2, 2 tc separated by 2 ch under 2 ch, ch 
2, 3 tc on tc, ch 6, 2 dc on 4 dc, ch 6, repeat from * around, turn- 
ing as described. 

5. Ch 8, catch back in 5th st from needle to form picot, tc in 
1 st sp, and continue around end, putting 2„ tc in centre ch as before, 
after 9 picots, * 3 tc in 3 tc, picot, tc under 2 ch, picot, tc under 
next ch, picot, tc in same place, picot, tc in next space, picot, 3 tc 
on 3 tc, repeat from * around, turning as described. 

6. Ch 3, 3 picots of 8 ch each caught in same st, ch 3, miss 1 
picot, fasten in next, repeat, fastening in the 2 centre picots where 
the tassels are to be attached, and missing 2 picots, 1 on each side 
of the 3 tc. Otherwise, the picots are caught in alternate loops. 
On the side of the insertion which is to bs joined for the ribbon to 
run in, the centre picot, after missing the 3 tc, is of 12 instead of 
8 chs. When making last row of 2d, 3d, and 4th strips, join by the 
12 ch picots (ch 6, hook through centre of picot on other strip, 
and draw thread through both sts). 

For tassels : Ch 7, join; ch 3, 21 tc in ring, join ; ch 4, 21 tc 
separated by 1 ch in tc of last round, join; ch 3, 27 picots of 8 ch 
caught with dc in 5th st from hook, ch 3, catch in 1st sp, and 

42 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

repeat forming 21 loops. Join tassels to centre picot on lower end 
of tidy by two 12-ch loops. These tassels are very effective. 

Cut ribbon in 3 pieces, fasten around upper bar, and weave each 
under and over to bottom, fold in a point and attach ball or fringe 

Made of No. 40 £cru flax thread, this design makes a beautiful 
chair-back. May be made larger or smaller as preferred. The 
coarser thread makes a most effective piece of work. 


[Contributed by Julia D. Smith, Box 159, West Medway, Mass.] 
[Illustrated on page 43.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax macrame, 4-ounce balls, steel 
hook, size 7, and 1% yards No. 9 ribbon. 

Begin with a chain of 5 sts. Work around and around with tc, 
widening to make the mat lie flat until you have a circle 7 inches in 
diameter, or as large as the bottom of the basket is wanted. Make 
3 stc, 3 dc, and 3 sc, to complete circle, then ch 20 for side of 

1. Sh of 3 tc, 2 ch and 3 tc in 5 th st of ch, miss 1, tc in next, 
ch 8, miss 8, tc in next, miss 1, sh in next, miss 1, tc in last, sc in 
3 sts on edge of basket, turn. 

2. Tc in tc, sh in sh, tc on tc, ch 8, tc on tc, sh in sh, ch 3, 

3. Sh in sh, tc in tc, ch 4, dc in 1st 8 ch, over 2d 8 ch, tc in 
tc, sh in sh, tc in tc, sc along side, turn. 

Repeat these rows around circle, leaving a plain ch between those 
connected. To make the top larger, and give necessary slant, make 
upper shells of dtc, say every other row, trying the basket occasion- 
ally on the basin or whatever is used for mold. When completed, 
join first to last row. There are many methods of stiffening this 
work. The article maybe dipped in thin glue or varnish, or — a 
method I have found useful — rubbed well in a paste made with three 
heaping spoonfuls of starch, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a spoonful 


44 barbour's prize needle^work series. 

of thick glue, cooked with boiling water. This makes not more 
than a quart of the paste. The mold should be oiled to prevent 
sticking as the article dries upon it. When thoroughly dry, remove 
from mold, run ribbon in spaces, tie in a bow, and, if desired, line 
bottom and sides with pasteboard, covered with silk to match ribbon 
and slightly wadded on one side. Little pockets may be added for 
thread, floss, etc., and the whole rendered very pleasing as a gift. 
Nothing surpasses the flax macrame for work of this kind, of which 
so many useful articles are made. It works so smoothly that it is a 
pleasure to use it, and — particularly if varnished — has the effect 
of rich carving, which can never be obtained by use of cotton 


[Contributed by Mrs. Betty Petersen, Lovegaard Slagelse, Denmark.] 

Materials: Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 25, 3-cord, 200-yards 
spools, steel hook, size 2, hemstitched linen square, 7^ inches, 
and 5 skeins Ulster etching flax for surface embroidery. 

1. Begin in centre of star with 8 ch, join, ch 3, fill ch with 30 
tc, join. 

2. Ch 3, * tc in next st, 6 tc in next, catching last tc back into 
1st to form a " puff," tc in each of next 2 sts, ch 2, and repeat from 
* 5 times, joining to top of 3 ch. 

3. Ch 3, * puff in next st, tc in next, puff in next, tc in each of 
next 2, ch 2, tc in next 2, and repeat from * 5 times, making 1 tc 
after 2 ch beside the 3 ch at beginning, and joining. 

4. Ch 3, * puff in next st, tc in next, puff in next, tc in next, 
puff in next, 2 tc in next 2, ch 3, 2 tc in next 2, and repeat from *, 
making a tc after 3 ch and joining to 3 ch, at beginning. 

5. Ch 3, * puff in st over 1 tc, tc in next st, puff in next, 2 tc 
in next 2, ch 2, dc in centre of 3 ch, ch 3, dc in same place, ch 2, 
miss 1st tc, tc in next, and in st over puff, and repeat from *, join- 
ing as usual. 

6. Ch 3, * puff in tc between puffs, 2 tc in next 2 sts, ch 2, dc 
in 2 ch, ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, dc in centre of next ch, ch 3, 



dc in same place, ch 2, miss tc, tc in next 2 sts, and repeat from *, 
joining as usual. 

7. Ch 3, 3 tc over puff, * ch 3, picot (as before) in centre of 
next ch, ch 3, picot in centre of next ch, ch 3, picot in centre of 

Centre-piece, with Star Border. 

next ch, ch 3, 4 tc in st over puff, and repeat from *, joining, ^after 
last ch, to top of 3 ch. 

8. Ch 9, miss 4 tc, fasten in 1st st of ch following, picot (ch 3, 
dc in same st), ch 4, fasten between picots of last row, picot, ch 9, 
fasten between next picots, picot, ch 4, fasten in st before 4 tc, 
picot, and repeat from 1st. 


9. Ch 5, * tc under 9 ch, ch 3, dc in 1st st of ch, repeat to give 
5 tc and 4 picots, ch 3, fasten under ch between 2 picots of last 
round, ch 3, and repeat from * 1 1 times, fastening under ch loop at 
beginning and breaking thread. 

For the square shown, 12 stars are required, and these are joined 
by picots when working last round, or with needle, as preferred. 
They are joined at corners by a wheel made thus : Ch 6, fill with dc, 
ch 4, picot (ch 3, fasten in 1st st), ch 1, tc in dc of ring, ch 1, 
picot, ch 1, tc in 2d dc, repeat to form 6 picots, make 4 tc, each 
separated by 3 ch, without picots, join; turn, ch 1, picot, ch 2, join 
to picot of side star, ch 2, picot, tc under 3 ch in wheel, ch 2, dc 
over next tc, ch 2, tc under 3 ch in wheel, ch 1, picot, ch 3, join to 
corner star, ch 3, picot, dc in top of tc, ch 2, and repeat to join 
other side star. Make a ch around square, so it will lie smoothly, 
work a row of dc, then of tc, separated by 1 ch, widening at cor- 
ners, then a row of dc, and join to linen square. Any little joining- 
wheel may be used that is preferred. This is a very handsome 
design for bedspread, and may be utilized in a variety of ways. The 
beauty of the heavy threads N in crochet work can scarcely be 


[Contributed by Ella H. Stratton, Holliston, Mass.] 
[Illustrated on page 43.] 

Materials: 2 skeins Ulster rope linen floss, shade No. 20, 1^2 
dozen rococo molds, steel hook, size 3, and i J / 2 yards pink ribbon, 
an inch wide. 

Dc around half 1st mold, then take another, dc half around that, 
joining as you work, until all have been used. Work entirely around 
last mold, then finish, catching into joining with 1 sc. Join first to 
last. Arrange in oval to fit photograph, cut a narrow oval of card- 
board, same shape, cover with green silk, run the ribbon in and out 
of each oval (first carrying a stitch across, lengthwise, over which 
the ribbon may form a puff), and tie in a bow at top. Fasten the 
cardboard shape to the back, and put a band of elastic across to 



hold photograph in place. Rings may be used in place of molds, 
and "spider-wheels" worked in each mold instead of the ribbon 
puff. Ulster floss is beautiful for this mold-crochet. 


[Contributed by Miss Annie M. Quackexbush, Warwick, N.Y.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, ecru, No. 70, 3-cord, 200- 
yards spools, steel hook, size o, and 5 yards baby ribbon. 

Old English Tidy. 

48 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

Ch 10, join. 

i. Ch 20, dc in loop of 10 ch; repeat n times, making 12 chs 
of 20. 

2. 15 tc in 1 st loop, * ch 8, dc back in 6th st to form picot, re- 
peat from * once, ch 19, turn work, fasten in 14th st (from needle), 
turn, 28 tc under ch loop, fasten with sc in 1st of tc, ch 12, join in 
8th st, * ch 5, dc under loop of 8 ch, repeat from * twice, turn ; 1 
dc, 9 tc and 1 dc under each 5 ch, 1 dc in 1st st after cloverleaf, 
ch 6, dc in 3d of 5 ch, * ch 8, dc in 6th st from needle, repeat 
from * once, ch 2, and 15 tc under same ch of 20. All other points 
the same, except the 28 tc, which in 2d and succeeding points 
should be 14 tc, fasten with sc in 4th st of 6 ch, 14 tc in same loop, 
fasten in 1st tc with sc, break thread after last point. 

3. Tc on 7th and 8th of 14 tc of last row, ch 4, dc in 5th st 
of cloverleaf, * ch 8, dc in 5th st of next scallop of leaf, repeat from 
* once, ch 4, repeat from beginning of row. 

4. Tc on 2d tc of previous row, ch 2, tc on 1st dc, * ch 2, miss 
1, tc on next st, repeat from * 8 times, ch 2, repeat from beginning. 

5. Dc on tc of previous row, ch 5, miss 2 ch, dc under next 2 
ch, * ch 5, dc under next 2 ch, repeat from * 7 times, ch 5, miss 2 
ch, and repeat from beginning. 

Seven wheels are required for the tidy. Tie together in centre of 
each touching scallop with knots of baby ribbon. The wheels make 
lovely little tumbler doilies. In No. 40 thread, with steel hook, size 
1, a much larger doily is had. It is of course understood that 
the designs given may all be worked in coarser thread, according to 
the use for which the article is wanted. Two and one-half spools of 
thread are required for the tidy, as made. 


[Contributed by Miss Olivia T. Closson, Washing-ton Barracks, Washington, D.C.] 

Materials : 2 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, ecru, No. 60, 
3-cord, 200-yards spools, 2 steel knitting needles, No. 17, 4 yards 
inch-wide ribbon, and a piece of silk or silesia 18 x 30 inches. 

Barbour's Prize Needle-Work, Series No. 5. 



Linen Thread carries 

This Trade Mark. 

Barbour's Prize Needle-Work, Series No. 5 

Sofa Pillow in Delft Embroidery. 

MATERIALS:— Barbour's Ulster Rope Liners Floss, 2 skeins 
No. 151, 3 of No. 152, 4 of No. 153, 3 of No. 154 and 155, 
and 4 of No. 156, two squares of blue denim, 20 x 20 
inches, and square of white duck or canvas 14x14 

HE quantity of Ulster Floss given is for the embroid- 
ery. Having the design transferred or stamped 
upon the canvas, proceed to work it as clearly 
indicated by the engraving. If desired, the shad- 
ing may be varied, but that shown by our model is very effect- 
ive, having the appearance of a charming piece of brush-work 
or china painting, its beauty increased by the lustre of the 
Ulster Floss. When the embroidery is finished, press face 
downward over soft cloth, as already directed, turn in the raw 
edge and fasten securely to the centre of the denim square 
designed for top of pillow. For this joining Barbour's spool 
linen, No. 50, is most suitable. The cord surrounding the em- 
broidered square may be purchased, or, which is better, made 
of Barbour's Ulster Rope Linen, shade 152 or 153, couched on 
by crossing at even distances with a strand of the floss a shade 
darker. Divide a skein evenly, having it full length, join to 
the next skein by sewing to the square firmly with thread 
referred to, and cover this with a couching strand. The floss 
may be twisted slightly as the work proceeds. Join the denim 
squares, on three sides, put in the pillow, sew up, and finish 
edge either with cord or frill. 


That all 




carries **5<&? 

this Trade-Mark. 



Turn up 14 inches for the case, leaving 4 inches for the flap. 
Make the lace cover and put on after the bag is completed, binding 
and facing the raw edges with ribbon. 

Insertion. — Cast on 18 sts. 

1. K 2, * o, p 2 tog, k 4, repeat from *, o, p 2 tog, k 2. It 

Night-Dress Case. 

will be understood that 1 "over." is required in purling, hence is 
not mentioned. 

2 > 3' 4o 5- Like 1st row. 

6. K 2, * o, p 2 tog, cast off 3, pull last st out to make good-sized 
loop and in this make 4 sts, knitting 1st on upper thread of loop, 
2d on under thread, 3d on upper, and 4th on under thread; repeat 
from *, o, p 2 tog, k 2. 

50 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

Repeat from ist row. 

Edging. — Cast on 20 sts. 

1. SI 1, k 1, * o, p 2 tog, k 4, repeat from * twice. 

* K 4, o, p 2 tog, repeat from * twice, k 2. 
Like 1 st row. 
Like 2d row. 
Like 1 st row. 

* Cast off 3, making loop as in insertion and knitting 4 in it, 
o, p 2 tog, repeat from * twice, k 2. 

This pattern is very simple, but extremely effective if knitted 
loosely. It is desirable for any purpose, as it may be widened at 
pleasure, and have a border added at the top if desired. In cast- 
ing off 3, slip ist of the 4 plain stitches, knit and bind over 3, draw- 
ing the last stitch out as directed. 


[Contributed by Mrs. Gwen Keyes, Red Oak, Iowa.] 


Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 70 and No. 80, 3-cord, 
200-yards spools, either ecru or white, two shuttles, and a half-yard 
of India or butcher's linen. Fill the shuttles with No. 80, which is 
used for the tatting. 

For the wheels at ends of ovals, make 9 picots, each separated by 
2 dk (double knots) ; close, and cut thread. The picots should be 
made j£ inch long. N^xt row, make 5 dk, fasten to a picot of 
centre, 5 dk, close; fasten on 2d shuttle, make 2 dk, 5 p separated 
by 2 dk, 2 dk, then another ring like the 1st, joined to centre p, 
and so continue around. Of these wheels 8 will be needed. For 
the small wheels forming the edge, make 5 dk, 3 p separated by 2 
dk, 5 dk, close ; then, with the 2 shuttles, a chain of 2 dk, 5 p sepa- 
rated by 2 dk, 5 dk ; continue rings and chains of scallops alter- 
nately until there are 6 of each, fastening the rings to each other 
by ist p. In making, fasten each wheel to preceding by middle p 
of last chain. For the large single wheels, make like those at end 
of ovals, only having the centre picots longer, and the chains begun 



and ended with 4 dk instead of 2 dk. Cut the linen 15 inches 
square, fold, and round the edge in scallops. It is better to cut a 
paper pattern and mark it on the linen. Baste the tatting on 
closely, placing the edge wheels on a line, buttonhole all around 


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barbour's prize needle wor 


Centre- Piece. 

with No. 70 thread, the-n cut the linen carefully from beneath. 
Press the work with a wet cloth over it. Heavier linen and coarser 
thread may be used with excellent effect. Lovely points for collar 
may be made of the small wheels, using 10 for each, and filling the 
little spaces at the top where the wheels are set slightly apart with 
half-wheels. Sew to a little band of ribbon, to go inside the collar. 


The point referred to measures $}4 inches across and is 3 inches 
deep, but the arrangement of the wheels may be varied as one 
chooses, and of as fine thread as liked. Of No. 250 (Barbour's 
honiton lace thread), they are as dainty as the most beautiful point 
lace. Work of this kind done with this thread has a glossiness and 
beauty never obtained by the use of cotton, and is superior to silk 
for purposes described. 


[Contributed by Mrs. Conradina Wilson, Box 3371, Boston, Mass.] 

Materials : Barbour's new lace thread, No. 250, 2 -cord, 200-yards 
spools, 10 pairs bobbins, small pins, lace desk, and pattern. 

Measure 5 yards thread, and beginning at the ends, wind half on 
each of 2 bobbins; wind 10 pairs thus. Pin 1 pair in A, B, C, D, 
E, F, G, H, and 2 pairs in I. Ht 9th and 10th, pin in J, close and 
twist; repeat through 10 pairs to 1st and 2d, with pin in R, cl, tw. 

Start the lace with the scallop, which is I made with wt ; wt 6th 
and 7th, 7th and 8th, 8th and 9th, 9th and 10th, pin in 1, close; to 
left, using 5th pair, pin in 2, close; to right, pin in 3, close; to 
left, using 6th, pin in 4, close; to right, pin in 5, close; to left, 
using 4th, pin in 6, close ; to right, pin in 7, close ; to left, using 
6th, pin in 8 ; to right, pin in 9 ; to left, using 5th, pin in 10; to 
right, pin in 11, then wt to 5 th pair. 

Net ground between scallop and spider : Ht 3d and 4th, 4th and 
5th, pin in 12, close. (As the pin is always closed unless otherwise 
specified, it need not be mentioned.) Ht to 2d pair, pin in 13th; 
ht to 7th, pin in 14; ht to 3d, pin in 15 ; continue working back 
and forth, adding a pair on right and leaving a pair on left, each 
time, pinning in 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21. Then ht to 10th, wt 
9th and 10th, pin in 22, ht to 6th, tw 5th, 6th, 4th, 3d, 2d, and 1st 
once. The 15 th time this net ground is made, which is in last scallop 
at corner, continue thus : pin in 48, close 7th and 8th. (In making 
the insertion, after this, wt 9th and 10th, pin in 49, close.) Cut 10th 
pair off, and tie to pin in R, after lace is moved back to start. 



Hole ground: Ht 2d and 3d, pin in 23, close, twist; wt 1st 
and 2d, pin in 24, cl, tw ; ht 3d and 4th, pin in 25, cl, tw ; same 
with 2d and 3d, pin in 26 ; wt 1st and 2d, pin in 27, cl, tw ; tw 3d, 
4th, 5th, and 6th once. For the spider, or wheel : * Ctc 4th and 5th, 
5th and 6th, 3d "and 4th, 4th and 5th*; pin in 28, repeat from 
* to *, tw 3d, 4th, 5th, and 6th 3 times. Repeat hole ground, pins 
in 29, 30, 31, 32, and S3^ 

Torchon Lace and Insertion for Handkerchief. 

Net ground, 2d : Ht 6th and 7th, pin in 34 ; ht to 10th, pin in 
35 1 to 4th, pin in 36 • to 9th, pin in 37 ; to 3d, pin in 38 • con- 



tinue working back and forth, pinning in 39, 40, 41, 42, and 43 ; 
then ht to 1st, wt 1st and 2d, pin in 44, ht to 5th, pin in 45, ht to 


H ■• 

G ' J 


•K- I 

• E *J 



C 'N 

B -0 * 

2 4 5 

A'P' 6 

• • . • 

*a # i2 • 

10 8 7 

R • 13 • 14- 

• • • 

'23" 15*16 




Id II 

•26 * 19 

'20 * 

27' 28 i 

21 *22 

•29 ' 34 

*35 # 

30*31 36*: 

57 * 

•32 '38*39 


33 40 '41 ' 

•42 '43- 



• • 

•46* . * 

47- * 

• • • 

• . • • 

• ■ • . • 


• . • • 


• t 


• : • 

* ■ '• 

_ • ■ • 

• • 

• • • 

• . 

• • • 


• • • 

• • 

• •-■ • 

• • • 

R. . 

• • • 

a . . 

p . . 






L .48 

r\ . 




G 'J 

F *K # 

E " J ' 

D * M ' 1 1 • 

B '0 * # 4- # 
A'P* ,6 "5 

R 13 If I. 
# 23' 15* 16-10 # 
^•^•l7 r IB*|| 
27* 28 '21 # 22 
# 29 * 34*35* 

I 31 36 37 
32/3.8 3.9* ' 
3.3 MO 41 * 
# 42 # 43 j * 

47 # * 

1 st, pin in 46 ; * tw 1st and 2d, wt, pin in 47 * ; from * to * is not 
made in 14th scallop. 

Make 14 scallops in this way, then on 15th make scallop and 
net ground, (1st) continue from ht to 6th, pin in 48, close. Take 
all pins out, put lace back to row of holes lettered J, K, L, M, N, 
O, P, Q, and R, selvage to selvage, put pins in last row of net 
ground, in holes R, Q, P, O, N, M, U, K, and J, doing this carefully 
so as not to pull the threads in the lace. It is a good plan to put 


pins in last scallop and in spider to hold it more firmly. This forms 
the corner. Start other sides like ist, from scallop; at end of 
4th side, cut threads about 2 inches from lace, join neatly and cut 
threads close. 

The insertion is started in the same way as the lace, and corner 
made in the same way. For right side : Wt 9th and 10th, pin in 
O, cl, tw, * ht 8th and 9th, pin in 1, cl, tvv ; ht 7th and 8th, pin in 2, 
cl, tw; wt 9th and 10th, pin in 3, cl, tw ; ht 8th and 9th, pin in 4, 
cl, tw; wt 9th and 10th, pin in 5, cl, tw ; tw 7th, 8th, 5th, and 6th 
once. * Ctc 6th and 7th, 7th and 8th, 5th and 6th, 6th and 7th, pin 
in 6, repeat from last * once, tw 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th, 3 times. 
Repeat hole ground from ist * to 2d *, pins in 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11. 
Make rest of insertion by directions for lace, after scallop, starting 
on ist net ground. 

Explicit directions for this work, which is very easy, are given in 
No. 3 and No. 4 of the Prize Needle-work Series, and in Barbour's 
new illustrated handbook of torchon lace making. The pattern 
shown is enlarged in order to give the letters and figures clearly, 
but may be easily reducerj in size by the aid of small quadrille 
paper. Use nothing but the flax thread for this work. 


[Contributed by Annie I.. Kean, 359 West Fort Street, Detroit, Mich.] 

Materials : Barbour's flax macrame^ 4-ounce balls, and macrame 
lace desk. Double a thread, cut it longer than the amount of fringe 
required, and fasten horizontally to desk or cushion, knotting 
threads upon it in usual manner. In No. 3 of the Prize Needle- 
work Series will be found directions for this work, also in Barbour's 
Instruction Book on macrame lace making. Allow plenty of length 
for the fringe; after ist figure it is easy to get exact length. Place 
a 2d doubled thread across, horizontally, form a rib by carrying 
threads around it, make a row of knots, then another rib, and then 
begin the figures of insertion. For one of these, use 12 threads, 
leaving 12 plain between each, to be covered by satin ribbon. 


barbour's prize needle-work series, 

Beginning to count at left, take 6th thread, hold it over ist 5 at 
slight angle to left, knot upon it as in making ribs, repeating to form 
2 close ribs. Carry 7 th thread to right, and work in same way, 
knotting last 5 threads upon it. Knot 4th and 5 th threads over 7th 
and 8th, then 7th and 8th over 4th and 5th, forming knot in centre 

Macrame Fringe. 

of diamond. Carrying ist of 12 threads at an angle to the right, 
work as directed, then the 12th thread to the left, forming the 2 ribs 
in each case. Then repeat the whole, and the figure is complete, 
Leave 12 threads, and continue. Make 2 horizontal ribs at bottom, 
as at top, cut fringe required length, and comb out. The pattern is 
a very handsome one, and while looking elaborate, is not much work. 
It may be used for a drapery scarf or lambrequin, but was designed 
to finish a scarf for footrest, made of gray momie, embroidered in 



the delft blue Ulster floss, and with satin ribbon run in the spaces. 
Permit me to suggest that nothing but the flax macrame' be used. 
It has a firmness and lustre that is beautiful, and is durable. I have 
a slipper-case which has been in constant wear for ten years, deco- 
rated with flax macrame work, which looks as well as when new. 


[Contributed by Miss Ingeborg Larsen, Decorah, Iowa.] 

Materials : Barbour's Ulster etching flax, size 4, Brussels net, and 
needle large enough to carry the thread. 

Darned Lace. 

58 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

Trace the design on a piece of rather stiff paper, baste this care- 
fully to the net, so it will not slip, then darn by the lines on the 
paper. This makes the work very easy and not so tiresome to the 
eyes, as it does away with the necessity for counting. The petals of 
the flowers should be filled in by darning back and forth, taking 
care that all threads go toward the centre of the flower. The edge 
should be buttonholed. When the darning is finished, remove the 
net from the paper, and trim the edges with a pair of sharp 
scissors. Made of fine net and darned with white or ecru floss 
this lace is beautiful, and may be used for various purposes. 
The design is strictly original, and though so simple and quickly 
worked, is extremely effective. 


[Contributed by Mrs. A. J. Truan, Smithwood, Tenn.] 
[Illustrated on page 43.] 

Materials : 6 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 60, 3-cord, 
200-yards spools, 6 skeins Ulster white flossette, size **, 2 yards 
lining silk, 7 yards narrow ribbon, medium-size pencil, coarse 
knitting needle, netting needle No. 14, and shade frame. 

Frames differ in shape and size. That shown is in sections, each 
5^ inches, on rib, 3^ at top and 11 at bottom; cut paper 
pattern to work by, and begin at top with 18 sts over pencil. 
Make 9 rows, widening 1 st at beginning and ending of 3d, 6th, and 
9th rows. 

10. Mesh loops, as described in netted collar, Barbour's Prize 
Needle-work Series, No. 4 : pass thread over pencil, netting needle 
upward through st of previous row, then over pencil, etc. 3 24 times. 
After 24th loop, pass needle to left of mesh, downward, draw 
thread to only a few inches, pass needle up through this loop, draw 
firmly, and set thread about J/s inch from plain netting of previous 
row. Repeat tying, then miss a st, and repeat mesh. 

11. Plain netting over needle, dividing meshes in 3 parts, and 
taking last 8 loops of 1 mesh with 1st 8 loops of next. 


12 to 29. Plain, increasing at beginning and end of every 3d row. 

30. Meshes, like 10th row. 

31. Like nth. 

32 to 6 . Plain, increasing as before in 33d and 35th rows. 

37. Plain. Fasten thread in 6th st and break off at 6th from 

38 and 39. Same. These short and shorter rows are to lengthen 
section in centre. 

This completes one section. Make 6, as required, then connect 
neatly, taking care that they are even at top and bottom. Net 
around bottom, plain; next, increase a st in every 5th. Run a 
coarse thread just above these two rounds to mark the place where 
the sections are to be fastened to frame, and show where drapery 
begins. Make 4 more rounds, plain, then a row of meshes, like 
10th row, followed by a row like nth, then 20 rows plain. For 
the border, meshes of 24 loops, ys inch long, missing 3 plain sts 
between, then plain, dividing meshes in 8 parts, last 3 of each 
netted with 1st 3 of next; next row of meshes, like above, taken 
between 4th and 5 th divisions, and 2 rows plain netting. The 
drapery may be made deeper if desired. 

The embroidery designs are in cross-stitch, working over the 
netted threads to make them heavier. They are as simple as 
possible, but effective. Others may be chosen, however, if desired. 
The netting for leaves around crown is made plain, beginning with 
18 sts, join, net to where the wires get nearer together, decrease a 
st, opposite decrease another, net 2 rounds, decrease as before, in 
same places, net plain, and when an inch from point decrease every 
2 sts till no more. Have decreased sts on sides, work cross st on 
front of each, make a row of 18-loop meshes, to be divided in 6 
parts, around each, then 2 more rows plain netting. Cover shade 
and leaves with silk, and fit on the netting neatly. Finish with 
ribbon bows, and strips of ribbon along ribs. 

The shade is very beautiful, having all the appearance of white 
silk, but when soiled may be easily laundered and lose nothing of 
its beauty. It is very easy to make, and the design may be varied 


barbour's prize needle-work series. 


[Contributed by Miss M. F. Jack, 112 N. Mill Street, New Castle, Pa.] 

Materials : 2 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, £cru, 3-cord, 
200-yards spools, No. 80 and No. 100, and piece of linen 11 inches 

Draw a circle 10 inches in diameter, inside this another circle 
7 inches in diameter, which buttonhole stitch all around with No. 

Round Doily. 

100. Divide this circle into 8 sections, draw a circle in the centre 
of each, and buttonhole around closely with No. 100. In each 


alternate wheel stretch 32 threads, working over these different 
woven stitches as shown. Work the remaining wheels with other 
varieties of lace-stitches. Feather-stitch around each wheel, and 
also around the inside of the buttonhole circle with No. 80. Cut 
the material along the line of the outer circle and fringe back to 
the buttonholed edge. Full directions for fringing a round doily 
are given on page 97, in No. 3 of Barbour's Prize Needle-work 
Series. The linen under the worked circles is, of course, to be cut 

These doilies are something quite new in the line of "drawn- 
work." Centre-pieces may be made in the same way. Beautiful 
little tumbler doilies have but one larger circle in the centre. To 
make these, mark a circle about 5 inches in diameter, and another 
3 inches in diameter, working exactly as directed ; y% of an inch 
inside the latter draw another, buttonholing over the edge. The 
narrow circle between the buttonholing is feather-stitched. Fill the 
wheel with different lace-stitches, and draw the fringe. 

Crocheted, tatted, or netted wheels may be used in this way with 
good effect. The method described in the Danish antique work, 
on page 93, Book No. 4, for cutting away linen, is an excellent one, 
as much less care need be exercised in clipping, and there are no 
raw edges. 


[Contributed by Miss S. W. Fiske, Fayetteville, N.Y.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 150, 3-cord, 200-yards 
spools, fine sewing needle, and square of fine linen, size desired for 

For the square, draw a thread each way on 2 sides, measure ^ 
inch from drawn thread, each way, draw a thread, leave 6 or 8 
threads, draw 1, measure another square in same way until there are 
9, 3 each way, then buttonhole all around outer edge. Beginning at 
the corner, tie a knot, cross to opposite corner diagonally, tie each 
place where the group of threads meet, repeat at next corner; 
beginning at middle of square, go straight across, tying at each group 


barbour's prize needle-work series. 

of threads; begin half between that thread and corner, cross the 
middle thread and tie a knot at group of threads, then straight across 

Handkerchief Corner. 

i square, tie, cross middle thread, fasten at edge, repeat other side of 
middle thread, fasten thread at edge of next square, go straight to 
group of threads, tie, in next square have threads cross each other, 
next square straight ; repeat each way. For the leaves, pass the 
needle up where the threads cross, tie, take 4 threads, pass needle 
back and forth till nearly full, drop 1 each side, pass back and forth 
2 or 3 times, slip needle under and take next 4, and so continue. 
In next square, pass needle up where threads cross, tie knot, work 


around 2 or 3 times by passing needle under 2 threads, back over 1, 
and under 2, fasten; repeat at each crossing, making 9 dots. 

I have tried to make this so plain it may be readily followed by 
one inexperienced. The design is original, so far as such things 
may be, and is extremely dainty. 


[Contributed by Mrs. Belle S. Kimes, Wheatland, Pa.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, 3-cord, 200-yards spools, 

1 spool each No. 50 and No. 90, and a circular piece of linen 12 
inches in diameter. 

Scallop the linen, leaving space for fringe y± inch long at narrow- 
est and 1 % inches at widest point. Using the centre of the linen as 
the starting point, describe 2 circles, 1 haying a radius of 2 inches, 
the other of 4 inches. The design is made between these circum- 
ferences. Divide the space into 16 equal parts, subdividing these 
into 8 equal parts, each. The first threads put in take the place of 
the threads of the material in doing drawn-work. Carry them from 
outer to inner circumference, crossing them in the centre so the 
work will not draw when the threads are bunched, as would other- 
wise be the case. Owing to the different sizes of the circum- 
ferences, the threads will not cross in the centre when put in, but 
when knotted, as shown, they can be easily brought into place with 
the fingers. The next threads are knotted to these threads as in 
drawn-work. The threads on the circumferences at each side of the 
work are made secure by interlaced buttonhole-stitch, which is simply 

2 rows made in opposite directions, the stitches of 2d row alternating 
with those of the 1st. After the work is completed, the last thing to 
do before lauudering is to cut away the linen under the worked space. 
Do not fringe until after laundering. No. 50 thread is used for the 
foundation and circular threads, No. 90 for the woven work, button- 
hole stitching, and feather stitching. A design familiar to nearly 
every one has been chosen to illustrate this method of work, which 



is original with me. If one desires to use a woven or other de- 
sign than illustrated, the foundation threads may be put in straight 

Round Drawn-Work Doily. 

In jest, this has been called " round drawn-work." The name 
may be misleading, but as there seems no term to quite express the 
method, this may perhaps stand until one more applicable is found 
to take its place. 




Materials : Barbour's Ulster rope linen floss, 6 skeins shade, and 
square of denim or heavy linen. Any combination of colors may 
be had that is preferred. The design is carried out in simple 
feather (or briar) stitch, giving a beautiful effect with little labor. 
This idea may be utilized for the decorating of table-covers, scarfs, 
etc., and is sure to be popular. 

66 harbour's prize needle-work series. 


[Contributed by Mrs. G. E. Spencer, Hammond, La.] 

Materials: Barbour's Ulster etching flax, 4 skeins shade No. 152 
and 5 skeins No. 155, with 24-inch square medium quality huck- 
aback linen. 

The design is 21 inches square, and is outlined first with the 

Square for Small Table. 

darker shade of blue, the darning being done with the lighter shade. 
The beauty of this work depends much on the evenness of the 


darning, and this is easily accomplished as the needle passes under 
the little " lumps " of the linen, which are very regularly woven. 
The edge is buttonholed with the light shade in long and short 
stitch, and again over the edge of this with the dark shade in short, 
even stitches, thus giving a firm edge that any number of washings 
will not cause to fray. I have been especially pleased with the 
effect of the floss in this piece of work, as the shades are such 
perfect delft blues. The floss is well adapted to this style of work, 
and the articles to which it may be applied are manifold. Any cut- 
work design mav be utilized. 


[Illustrated on page 43.] 

Materials : Barbour's Ulster rope linen floss, size oo, 3 skeins 
each shade No. 70 and No. 71, 2 skeins each No* 131 and No. 
132, 1 skein No. 42, and 6 skeins No. 20, with \y 2 yards light- 
green denim, 24 inches wide. The design, though very effective, 
is easily worked. Stamp or mark the pattern on the denim. 

With shade No. 70 work 3 petals on 1st flower to the right, the 
3d, 4th, and 5 th, beginning at the top and counting to the right, 
with a portion of 6th, shading into No. 71, with which the last half 
of 4th petal is worked, and following 4 petals. The stitch is simple 
long and short stitch, taken through and through, care being 
observed not to draw the floss too tightly so as to pucker the work. 
Toward the base of petals the stitches are slanted somewhat, at the 
top taken nearly straight. The same number of petals in the 2d 
flower are worked with No. 70, beginning with 1st, which is like 
6th in 1st flower, followed by 2d, 3d, and 4th, the succeeding 4 
petals, with half of 1st, being worked with No. 71. In 3d flower, 
2d, 3d, 4th, and part of 5th petals are of No. 70, remainder with 
No. 71. The leaves are first filled with a cross-stitching of No. 
131, then the edge of each outlined, as is the stem, with No. 132. 
The scroll is outlined with No. 42. No. 20 forms the body ol the 
fringe, mingled with other colors used, or with Nos. 70 and 71 
alone. After finishing the work, lay it face down on several 



thicknesses of soft cloth, and place a slightly dampened cloth over 
the back, pressing with a moderately hot iron. It has every appear- 
ance of the nicest silk work at far less expense, and has the advan- 
tage that it will not "fuzz" up as it is used. 


[Contributed by Ella II. Stkatton, Holliston, Mass.] 
[Illustrated on page 43.] 

Materials : Barbour's Ulster etching flax, size 4, shades 11, 13, 3, 
and 100B, 1 skein each, and piece of cream-color linen, 11 x 16 
inches, or according to size of book. 

Mark or stamp the spray of purple asters. Outline veins of 
leaves and stems with shade 13, leaves and calyx work with shade 
11, a few sts of shade 13 in each calyx, centres of French knots, 
with shade 3, and petals outlined with shade 100B. 

Other designs may be worked with equally good effect; yellow 
daisies on pale-blue linen, wild roses on pale-green, or according to 
one's taste. The Ulster flax is especially suited to such embroidery, 
and by its use a cheaply bound book may be easily transformed 
into a lovely holiday or birthday gift. 


[Contributed by Mrs. Hedvig Muller, No. 117 West 62d Street, New York, N.Y.] 

Materials : 6 skeins Bar- 
bour's White Star flossette, 
size **, and 24-inch square 
of blue (or any preferred 
color) linen or denim. 

Having the design stamped 
or transferred, proceed to 
follow the outline in the new 
French stitch, which is es- 
pecially effective for all work 
of this kind, and rapidly 
executed. The illustration 



Sofa Pillow. 

shows clearly how the stitch is made. This square may be used 
for covering the top of a small table, or similar purpose, with 
good effect. 


[Contributed by H. Mae Spencer, Hammond, La.] 

Materials : Barbour's Lister etching flax, i skein each of shades 
No. 10, No. 21, and No. 120, 2 skeins each of No. 20 and No. 
121, and 2 2 -inch square of cream satine. Choose a cheap quality, 
as the coarser twill is more artistic. It must be lined to give suffi- 

70 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

cient body to work easily. The 3 shades of green are used in the 
leaves in long and short stitch, while the pink shades are used for 
the rest of the pattern in outline stitch. The edge of the pillow may 
be finished with a frill of silk matching any one of the shades of floss, 
with a frill of the satine feather-stitched with the floss, or — which 

Oak-Leaf Sofa Pillow. 

is pretty, and newer than the frill — a plain seam with rosettes 
made of pink and green ribbon on each corner. If preferred, a 
heavier material may be chosen, and Barbour's Ulster rope linen, 
which comes in the same shades as the etching flax, used with the 



same design. The flosses work up beautifully in this pattern, and as 
washing does not change their color a particle, unless it be to blend 
the shades even a little more perfectly, work done with them is an 
everlasting delight. 


[Contributed by Mrs. A. Tripp, Portland, Oregon.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 250, 2-cord, 200- 
yards spools, 1 skein Barbour's linen embroidery floss, No. 5, 8 yards 

Point Lace Handkerchief, 

barbour*s prize needle-work series, 

narrow point braid (No. 13 on list), i)£ yards honiton, Xo. 31, 
2 yards purling, Xo. 1. 

Stiffen the design, which is on blue paper cambric, by putting a 
double piece of calico or similar material on back. Outline the star- 
shaped flower with floss, to be worked over with close buttonhole st. 
Sew braid on neatly, the right side being up, sew on the honiton and 
fasten all ends with buttonhole st, tacking a thread on places where 
the braid is not used to form the pattern, and filling in with Brus- 
sels lace st, always working out of the braid. The bars are twisted 
sts ; twist to centre of bar, form a buttonhole st, put needle through 
loop, twist thread around needle iS or 20 times, draw through. 
keeping thumb on roll of thread, form into loop, pass needle through 
buttonhole st once more, and twist as before. All the bars are 
made in this way. Work star flowers in close buttonhole, covering 
ends of braid neatly. Make rings by winding floss around small 
quill twice, fasten with needle and slip off, buttonhole smoothly 
around, and sew in place after work is off pattern. Last, sew on 
purl edge, taking each loop. Be careful with centre : place cambric 
down smooth, lay lace on top, tack all around, then lift and sew 
neatly on right side, taking very short sts. Turn, cut away super- 
fluous cambric, turn in edge and sew same as on right side. Permit 
me to say that I have done this work almost from childhood, and 
find Barbour's lace thread the best I have ever used. It does 
not break and works as smoothly as silk, being — especially for 
this purpose — eminently superior to the latter. 


1. Old point: Fasten thread in braid, carry across, twist back 
to centre, carry to other points and twist back, adding more 
bars as the space requires it, draw thread around twice in centre, 
loosely, and buttonhole the ring thus formed, twist down the starting 
thread and fasten off. The wheel may be varied, using the same 
foundation, by the " spider web," which is woven around and around, 

Lace Stitches. 

74 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

over and under threads, the raised wheel formed, after twisting the 
threads from point to point and back to centre as directed, by 
carrying the thread back over each bar, thus going entirely around 
it and forming a rib. This is sometimes called the " spinning 

2. Sorrento or twisted bars : This stitch is much used in the 
renaissance work proper, being carried from point to point, caught 
with a buttonhole stitch, and twisted back. It is also useful in 
filling leaves as illustrated. Fasten in and carry thread straight 
through centre, twist back, then make the slanting twisted bars as 
directed, working over the stem twice between each long stitch. 
Point Grecque an^d point d'Anvers bars are other varieties. In 
making former, begin at lower point, as directed, pass thread 
straight up, twist twice back, carry slightly aslant to side, catch in 
braid, carry across centre thread to other side, and bring back with 
a buttonhole-stitch under the centre or stem thread, making a knot 
which holds all, twist back twice and continue. This is effective but 
very rapidly worked. Point d'Anvers is formed by carrying 4 threads 
straight up through centre, 2 a little on each side of point, weaving 
under and over the double threads, 4 to 6 times, or according to 
size of leaf, and twisting the slanting stitches to sides. 

3. Point d'Espagne : This is often called twisted or Brussels 
lace stitch, being the " Bruxelles " or buttonhole stitch with the 
thread put once around the needle before drawing out. Several 
twists may be made, 2, 3, or 4 as desired, thus lengthening the stitch. 
Work back and forth in the same way. 

4. Work around space in No. 3, carry threads (single) across, 
connecting in centre, and working over and under as directed for 
point d'Anvers, of which it is a variation. Twist back down a single 

5. Diamond pattern : Make 8 close buttonhole stitches > to right, 
miss 2 spaces in braid, repeat. 2d row, to left, 5 close stitches in 
centre of 8, 2 in space, repeat. 3d row, 2 stitches in centre of 5, 
then 5 on space in centre of 2 close stitches, and in space on other 
side, and repeat. 

6. A combination of point d'Anvers and spider-web wheels : 


Work twice around space in open buttonhole loops, drawing together 
in the centre loosely, form a little spider-web around each thread 
by weaving 3 or 4 times around, and work point d'Anvers on outer 
loops. This stitch is given to show the great variety of combinations 

7. Ulster bar: Carry thread across, twist back to centre, make 
a buttonhole stitch, insert needle in this, twist thread around needle 
10 or 12 times, place left thumb on this roll and draw needle 
through, forming a round, pass needle up through buttonhole stitch, 
and continue, always twisting one way. This is a new stitch, and 
makes a beautiful groundwork. 

8. A variation of point de Bruxelles : Make 3 close buttonhole 
stitches, pass 3 spaces, and repeat. 2d row, 2 close stitches in top 
loops of 3 of 1 st row, miss space, and repeat. 3d row, 3 stitches 
in space, repeat. 

9. Another variation : Make 5 close stitches, pass equal space, 
and repeat. 2d row, 5 close stitches on 5 of last row, 5 in space, 
and repeat 3d row, like 1st, making 5 close stitches over 5 in space, 
missing other blocks. These variations are almost without limit. 

10. Irish rose stitch : Carry thread across space and twist back 
to centre as has been directed, forming a cross, weave around 3 
times, make a roll as in Ulster bar between each, and twist down 
single thread. 

11. A combination of rose and buttonhole stitch : Make 4 close 
buttonhole stitches, 1 roll stitch, and repeat. 2d row, close stitch in 
each of 4, miss roll, and repeat. In next row make roll over space. 

12. Sailor's knot : Knot in thread and carry needle 3 times 
around, pass space of 3, and repeat. 2d row, pass 3 stitches, and 
make 3 on space. 

13. A variation of Raleigh bars : Draw thread twice across space, 
make 4 buttonhole stitches on threads, hold thread down J inch from 
bar, make 3 buttonhole stitches on it ; repeat, carrying threads as 
desired to fill space. 

14. Plain point de Bruxelles : A collection of lace stitches would 
hardly be complete without this most useful of all. Make a loose 
buttonhole stitch in each picot of braid, missing space between. 2d 

76 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

and all succeeding rows, a stitch in each loop. Worked evenly, this 
stitch is always effective. 

15. Fan stitch. Make 2 close buttonhole stitches, pass space 
for 8, repeat. Repeat this row, putting 2 stitches in 2, until you 
have space crossed by 3 threads. Form knot around centre of 
these, 2 stitches in 2, and repeat. 

16. Another variation of point de Bruxelles : Make a row as in 
No. 14. 2d row, a stitch in each of 2, miss 3 stitches, and repeat. 
3d row, 1 stitch in centre of 2, 3 stitches in space, and repeat. 

17. Flemish stitch : Like so many other named stitches, this is 
also a variation of the buttonhole stitch. Make 6 close stitches, pass 
space for 2, make 3, pass 2, make 2, pass 2, make 6, and repeat. 
2d row, 6 stitches under space, pass 2, 2 in small space, pass 2,2 m 
small space, pass 2, and repeat. This stitch is also capable of 
infinite variations. 

18. A useful filling stitch is shown, formed of crossed threads 
and wheels. Carry the threads across to form squares, then diag- 
onally, intersecting at regular points, around which wheels are woven, 
carrying thread from one to another. A variation is the twisted or 
Sorrento bar, with wheels, forming squares and -weaving over and 
under till webs or wheels are of desired size. 

19. Point de Venice : Work plain buttonhole stitch from right 
to left, then work back with a loose buttonhole and 3 close stitches 
in this loop. Work back plain stitch in each loop, and repeat. 

20. Plain buttonhole stitch, 2 close, miss 2, and repeat. Bring 
thread back, and repeat, working in loop, over straight thread. 


[Contributed by Ella Bottokff, Corydon, Ind.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax lace thread, No. 250, 2-cord, 200- 
yards spools, pure white, fine sewing needle, 12 yards plain lace 
braid, 2 yards purl edge, and 6-inch square linen cambric. 

The pattern may be stiffened by placing wrapping-paper beneath 
it. The braid is then closely basted to the design, the curves 



whipped, to draw them to proper outline, and ends of braid neatly 
secured on upper side, it being the wrong side. It is rather difficult 

Handkerchief in Point Lace. 

to give detailed directions for work of this kind, and entirely unneces- 
sary, as stitches may be varied indefinitely according to the taste of 
the worker. All that is needed is the perfect illustration one always 
finds in the Barbour books, and the pattern. Broadly speaking, the 
stitches employed in this design are Sorrento bars and wheels, and 
point lace fillings. The leaves of corner flowers are filled with point 
de Tulle, point de Sorrento, and point de Valenciennes; the border 
leaves with point de Sorrento and point de Venice, all of which are 

78 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

but different forms of buttonholing. When all filling stitches are 
completed, release the work carefully from design, and press with 
hot iron and damp cloth. 

The design of this handkerchief is original. Point lace is so easily 
learned — even by means of self-instruction, as I taught myself — 
and so beautiful in its different applications, that its popularity is not 
to be wondered at. Allow me to say that I find no thread so well 
adapted to this work as is Barbour's Irish flax thread. 


[Contributed by Mrs. A. Tripp, Portland, Oregon.] 

Materials : i spool Barbour's linen lace thread, No. 250, 2 -cord, 
200-yard spools, 2 yards plain point lace braid, 1 yard purl edge. 

Lace Points. 

Follow usual directions in basting braid on design, turning all 
corners neatly. Commence working from the braid on lower part 


of leaf next to stem, in slanting rows, fastening to double thread of 
leaf centre. Fasten off at point. Repeat on other side, using dif- 
ferent stitch. There are two stitches in each leaf, which may be 
varied as liked. The little clusters of rings at each side are made 
by winding thread around a small bone needle or stiletto ; button- 
hole smooth and close around, sew in form and tack on pattern. 
Draw a thread three times from cluster, fasten to braid between 
leaves, and buttonhole, forming a little bar on each side to connect 
leaves. Finish with the purling, joining to braid and rings neatly. 
On the neatness of this work depends much of its beauty, but this 
is attained by practice. 


[Contributed by Miss Annie S. Converse, So. Worthington, Mass.] 

Materials: 7 spools No. 35 and 1 spool No. 120 Barbour's 
Irish flax thread, 3-cord, 200-yards spools, 8 dozen yards hemstitch 
braid, No. 22, and 27-inch square of damask linen. 

Follow directions previously given for preparing work. In No. 3 
and No. 4 will be found explicit instructions. Baste clustered rings 
— which are made by winding thread 10 times around small pencil, 
and working over in close buttonhole — in place so that braid may 
be carried to them. The single ring is made over a larger pencil. 
Use No. 120 thread for whipping curves ; it is very fine and strong. 
No. 35 is used for ground and filling stitches, for which the 
worker chooses those which best please her. In the illustration the 
large lobed leaves are first veined by carrying groups of thread, 2 in 
each place, from point to point, and darning over and under the 
double threads. The veins are then basted down to keep them in 
place, and beginning at the right hand of stem the spaces are filled 
with double Bruxeiles (plain buttonhole, 2 in each stitch) stitches, 
working lengthwise of veins. The rose petals are filled with plain 
single Bruxeiles, and the remainder of spray with Bruxeiles and point 
de Venise stitches, in alternate rows, directions for which, and for 
the Raleigh bars, with picots used in ground, will be found in No. 2, 
No. 3, and No. 4 of the Prize Series. When finished remove from 


barbour's prize needle-work series 

pattern, insert damask centre by placing under braid, side-stitching 
down on upper side with No. 120 thread, cutting linen on underside, 

Tea-Cloth in Old English Toint. 

turning edges neatly and side-stitching down on braid. Then pin work 
down on sheet, and press with hot iron over damp cloth till dry. 

This tea-cloth is an exquisite piece of work, which cannot fail to 
please the most fastidious, and while very expensive if purchased 
outright, may be easily made by any one in spare moments. If pre- 
ferred, " Renaissance'' work, which is more rapidly executed, being 
so " sketchy," may be substituted for the Old English point or 
Battenburg, using the same design. 




[Contributed by Emma H. Rice, 333 Arlington Street, Ycrangstown, Ohio.] 

Materials : 2 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 35, 3 -cord, 
200-yards spools, 1 spool No. 100, 30 yards hemstitched linen braid, 

Renaissance Centre-Piece. 

No. 21, 15 yards, No. 22, 6 dozen crocheted rings, and $/% yard 
linen for centre. 

For beauty, simplicity, and speed in making, few designs excel 
this one of Renaissance lace, but two simple stitches being required 

82 barbour's prize needle-work series. 

ii making it, the twisted bars and spider-web or wheel. The wider 
(No. 22) braid is used for the palm-leaves and the No. 21 for 
remainder of work. Baste the braid smoothly on pattern on the 
outer edge, then draw the inner or full edge into position, by over- 
casting closely with the No. 100 thread. Make the rings of 3 sizes, 
winding thread around small sticks or pencils and crocheting over 
the ring. Rings may be purchased, if desired, but are nicer made 
of the thread. Baste the rings in position, work the bars and webs 
with No. 35 thread, press over dampened cloth, remove from 
pattern, and hem on the linen. This design may be used for cur- 
tains, bed-sets, lunch-cloths, dresser-covers, and a great variety of 


[Contributed by Elizabeth Harris, 915 So. Broad Street, Philadelphia.] 

Materials : i spool each No. 35, No. 40, and No. 100 Barbour's 
Irish flax thread, 3-cord, 200-yards spools,^ sewing needles large 
enough to carry thread nicely, steel crochet hook, size 1, 10- inch 
square of linen for centre, and 9 yards plain hemstitch braid. 
The new Ulster braid is used in this piece with beautiful effect. 

After basting design to stiff wrapping-paper, cut a good-sized 
piece out of the centre, as the work can then be done so much 
easier. Baste the braid down on pattern carefully, whip the curves 
with No, 100 thread to make braid lie flat, making all fastenings of 
ends, etc., in upper side, that being the wrong side. Make rings 
by winding No. 35 thread 8 or 10 times around a pencil, and cover- 
ing with dc (or buttonhole stitch) with the crochet hook. Baste 
them in place. The 4 rings in inner part of heart are surrounded 
by Sorrento bars, made by passing a single thread from point to 
point and twisting return thread around it. All other bars in the 
work are plain woven bars, a foundation being made of 4 threads 
from point to point, and thread passed over and under 2 threads 
till bar is filled. When bars and rings are made in this manner with 
the Barbour thread they are beautiful, so rich and silky looking, and 



so durable. The lower pointed figure in each heart is made by 
filling with perpendicular threads about % inch apart, then crossing 

Heart Design in Roynl Battcnburg. 

them, knotting the thread at each block made ; then cross diago- 
nally from right to left, knotting at each crossed thread, and finish 
by crossing diagonally from left to right, making knot on single 
thread, also on the other knots, and then weaving under and over 
twice around the large knots. The 2 figures on side may each be 
filled with a different stitch, but in design are alike, with double 


point de Bruxelles — a loose buttonhole with another drawn tight 
close to it. The outer edge of heart has the rings connected by 
single strands of thread crossing in centre, the last strand going to 
centre and gathering threads together with a knot, then weaving 
over and under the strands 2 or 3 times around knot ; pass down to 
braid, completing that strand. When stitches are all in, cut basting 
threads, lay the lace over the piece of linen, which has been cut a 
seam larger than centre space is marked on pattern, baste lace to 
linen, hem down with No. 100, whip the raw edge of linen, and 
Dress all with hot iron over dampened cloth. 

This design is original^ and a little out of the usual order ; but 
though so simple and rapidly worked, is very effective. It may be 
used as a continuous border by a little change. 


[Contributed by Christine Hansen, Schonberggade, T2 Kjobenhavn, Denmark.] 

Materials : 3 spools Barbour's Irish flax thread, 3-cord, 200- 
yards spools, two 8-inch squares linen, cut in halves for corners, and 
one 5 -inch square, for centre, after being hemstitched. 

The half- squares are buttonholed all around, the figures being 
made as described in " Danish Antique Scarf," page 92, No. 4. 
Run the line, cut back, and buttonhole over both edges, filling in 
with lace stitches. This pattern may be carried out in crochet, 
using steel hook, size o, with No. 50 Barbour's Irish flax thread, 
finer or coarser thread according to use of lace. The illustration is 
done with needle, the wheels being alike throughout. Beginning 
in centre, wind thread around a pencil or stick 3/q inch in diameter, 
10 or 12 times, buttonhole over it closely, then make the points by 
working back and forth in close buttonhole, dropping a st on each 
side. When point is reached, wind thread around stick y 2 inch in 
diameter, or a trifle larger, and buttonhole over, filling the centre 
with twisted bars or threads. It requires 8 of these for a wheel, 
and they are neatly joined with needle and thread. Rows of plain 
rings surround the linen centre and half-square corners, and the 
edge is of twisted threads worked over in buttonhole and picots. 


Barbour's Prize Needle-Work, Series No. 5, 

Design in Violets, for Sofa Pillow. 

MATERIALS:— Barbour's Ulster Rope Linen Floss, 1 skein 
No. 4, 3 skeins each No. 20 and No. 21, 2 skeins each 
No. 100, Nos. 100B and 101, and 24 inch square of 
yellow satin sheeting. 

HIS decoration is applicable to a variety of uses, 
and the violets may easily be more thickly 
"powdered" over the surface. Mounted, as a 
screen, it 'has a most beautiful effect. Done in 
the Ulster Etching Flax, which may be had in all the shades of 
the rope linen, it will be found especially suitable for deco- 
rating a night-robe case or other sachet for similar use, which 
should be redolent with the perfume of " sweet violet " sachet 
powder. Repeated, it is a desirable pattern for embroidering 
a bedspread, the rope linen being used for this purpose ; or it 
may be used for scarf-ends, etc., giving, in any case, complete 
satisfaction to the worker. 

That Barbour's Ulster Linen Floss, white and colored, is the 
best embroidery material to be found, particularly when articles 
are designed for use, is the verdict of thousands of needle- 
workers all over the country. It adapts itself perfectly to 
every variety of work, does not roughen with wear, and its 
range of coloring is almost unlimited. 


Linen Thread carries 

This Trade Mark. 



Antique Square. 

The design may be varied in many ways, to suit any requirement, 
and any lady used to the crochet hook can readily adapt it to this 
method of work. 


[Contributed by Alice A. Chamberlin, Elbridg-e, N.Y.] 

Materials : i spool of Barbour's Irish flax thread, No. 150, white, 
skein of Ulster etching flax, size 4, 6y 2 -inch square linen lawn or fine 
linen, and 1 J^ yards honiton leaf braid, small size. 



Baste the braid firmly to the linen in design shown and with the 
floss buttonhole closely around each medallion in long and short 
stitch. Three-fourths inch from edge, hemstitch with the thread for 
the fringe. If preferred, add an inch to the size of square and turn 
a hem for hemstitching. After finishing, launder nicely, then draw 
the fringe, and with a pair of sharp scissors cut away the linen from 

rleaf Doily, in Ideal Honiton. 

beneath the medallions. This is an original design, which may be 
simplified or made more elaborate as desired. 




[Contributed by Mrs. Hedvig Muller, No. 117 West 62c! Street, New York, N.V ] 

Materials : A spool each of Xo. 25 and Xo. 35 Barbour's Irish 
flax thread, 3-cord, 200-yards spools, 30 yards new Ulster braid, and 
14-inch square of linen, hemstitched. 

Centre Square. 

Follow usual directions for basting braid on design, connecting 
braid with twisted bars and wheels. Though so rapidly done, the 



effectiveness of this work — due to the ornamental character of the 
braid, which gives an embossed appearance — can hardly be 


[Contributed by Miss Ellen Muller, No. 117 West 626I Street, New York, N.Y.] 

Materials : Barbour's Irish flax thread, i spool each No. 25 and 
No. 35, 3-cord, 200-yards spool?, and 18 yards new Ulster braid. 

Russian Collar. 

Make rings by winding thread around smooth stick, ]/ 2 inch in 
diameter, slip off, and work over closely in buttonhole or dc stitch. 
Baste braid on pattern, drawing loops together by thread run in on 
inner or full side, baste rings firmly in place, and put in the stitches 



of twisted bars and webs. The leaves are filled with herring-bone 
or cross-stitch, single and double, and with webs — point d'Alencon. 
The work is very simple but effective. 


Materials : 2 spools, No. 40, Barbour's Irish flax thread, 3-cord, 
200-yards spools, white, 2 balls Irish flax crochet and lace thread, £cru, 


No. 35, 25 yards new Ulster braid, and square of light brown linen 
or denim. 

90 Barbour's prize needle-work series. 

Use the spool thread for sewing the braid on the pattern, and for 
joining, for the rings and the buttonholing in long and short stitch 
around braid design. The ecru thread is used for filling-in stitches, 
and for the little scalloped edge, which is buttonholed before the 
linen is cut away. This work is the same as for Battenburg, save 
that the braid is fastened to the linen foundation, which is cut from 
beneath it, as in ideal honiton. Doilies, centre-pieces, etc., may be 
made in the same way, and the work is very effective. 


So many centuries has netting been practiced that it is impossible 
to fix the date of its invention. Without doubt, however, it is the 
earliest of textile arts, originating, perhaps, with the awakening of 
primeval man to the necessity of snaring bird, beast, and fish, for 
food. Fragments of nets are found among the relics of the Lake 
Dwellers, and specimens of this work, thousands of years old, to- 
gether with the implements used in its production, are preserved in 
museum and other collections. Through these centuries netting 
has steadily gained in popularity and diversity of uses, overshadowed, 
sometimes, by other fashions in needle-work, but holding its own 
well as a pleasing and useful art. At the present time it is in ex- 
ceptionally high favor. There is scarcely an article of household 
use or personal adornrnent in which it may not do service. The 
"Antique Curtains," page 69, No. 4, have attracted universal admira- 
tion, and it is in response to many requests that the chapter on 
" Antique or Guipure Lace," in No. 1 of the Prize Series, is sup- 
plemented by the present article. Let it be always remembered 
that the only suitable thread for this work is linen ; and Barbour's 
is particularly desirable, being so uniform, free from knots, and 

The implements required are netting needles and meshes of 
various sizes. The meshes are either round or flat, and determine 
the size of stitch. Other sizes of needle than No. 14 to No. 19, 
inclusive, will seldom be required ; and a half-dozen sizes of mesh 



Fig. i. 

may be supplemented by knitting needles, size 14 needle being 
equal to 3^ -inch flat mesh. For very fine netting, or in event 
of beginning work upon fabric which will not allow the pas- 
sage of a filled needle, 
a long darner may be 
used. An illustration of 
this method is given in 
No. 1. The size of net- 
ting needle should be pro- 
portioned to the size of 
stitch, and as large as will 
pass readily through the 
work, as the larger the 
needle the more thread it 
will hold, and the less the 
number of joinings re- 
quired. These should be 
made at the edge of work 
when possible. 

Many devices are employed to keep the work firm so that the 

knot may be properly 
drawn up. Some ladies 
use the " stirrup," over 
the foot, others fasten the 
thread loop to a chair 
or table. The weighted 
cushion is best liked, and 
in case this is not at hand 
a flat-iron with adjustable 
handle answers the pur- 
pose admirably. 

Details for this work are 
given in No. 1, to which 
ladies are cordially referred. Having filled the needle, tie a loop of 
thread to the cushion, or whatever may be used, join working- 
thread to this loop, and holding mesh and needle as shown by 

Fig-. 2. 



Fig. i, bring thread down front over mesh and 3 fingers, pass 
between 3d and 4th fingers and up at back, to left, and hold on 

1 st finger with the thumb. 
Bring the needle down to 
right (Fig. 2) at back, 
having thread loose, pass 
it upward through loop 
around fingers, between 1st 
finger and mesh through 
the thread-loop (or after 
the first row, the loop of 
previous row), and over 
the working-thread held by 
the thumb ; this gives a 
loop of thread around the 
little finger as well. Now 
(Fig. 3) holding this position, bring the needle through, tightening 
gradually the loop under little finger, let go the thread held in place 
by the thumb, then the loop around 2d and 3d fingers — all the 
while drawing the needle ; now, by aid of the loop on little finger, 

Fig. 3. 

Fig-, s- 

Fig. 4. 

draw the thread tight around mesh, letting go this loop when as 
snug as may be and drawing thread tight. Keep the stitches for 
entire row upon the mesh, if convenient ; if too many, let them slide 
off to the left. When the row is finished, draw out the mesh, 



turn the work, and repeat. This is the simple " diamond netting " 
(Fig. 4), which forms the foundation of the lovely antique curtains 

Fig. 6. 

Fig. 7. 

referred to. It is useful for tidies, cushion covers, and a great 
variety of articles, being darned in with beautiful patterns in 
cross-stitch or guipure stitches. Square netting (Figs. 5 and 6) is 

Fig. s. 


begun at one corner with 2 stitches, and worked 
backward and forward, widening at end of each row- 
by making 2 stitches in 1 until of sufficient width. There will 
be 1 stitch more than the number of holes the finished square is 
desired to contain; thus, for the 5 -hole square, there must be 6 


Barbour's prize needle-work series. 

Fig. to. 

Fig. ii. 

stitches on mesh. Now, make a row without increasing, then 
decrease the square by taking 2 stitches at end of row in 1, and 
when the corner is reached 
join last two stitches in 1, 
breaking thread and tying se- 
curely. To form the oblong 
foundation (Fig. 7) — useful 
for laces, etc., — increase un- 
til there are 2 more stitches 
than are required for the breadth, then con- 
tinuing the increasing on one side and decrease on the other, 
so that the number of stitches is the same. Finish the 1st corner 

as in square foundation. To make a 
foundation with loops of 2 sizes, carry 
thread twice around mesh for large hole, 
once for small one (Fig. 8). " Round 
netting " differs from that described only 
in the method of placing the needle in 
stitches of preceding row. Put needle 
through loop without changing place of 
finger or loop-turn needle, and put it 
into stitch of preced- 
ing row from above 
downwards, the working-thread remaining on 
right of needle, and the stitch drawn up in 
usual manner. In this way, the stitches are a 
little twisted. The " honey-comb" (Fig. 9) is 
a pretty variation, used for ties, etc. (See page 
73, No. 4.) Beginning with an even number of 
loops, make 1st, 3d, and alternate rows plain. 
2d row: Net 2d stitch, then 1st, next 4th, then 
3d, etc. 4th row: Net 1st plain, net 3d, then 
2d, 5th, then 4th, and continue, ending with a 
plain stitch. Repeat from 1st row. 

By using different sizes of mesh, netting several stitches in 1, 
etc., many variations may be had ; the square and diamond stitch, 

Fig. 12. 

Fig. 13. 



however, used as foundations for darning, are those for which in- 
struction is usually desired. Any cross-stitch pattern may be carried 


1 ' » "'i ' 

1 \ \ TT* 

f~ i TrrTv*y I 







v p J 



Fig. 14. 

Fig. 15- 

out in the common darning stitch (Figs. 10 and 11), as shown by 
the working pattern for the antique curtains in No. 4. Another 
method of filling squares is shown by Fig. 12, and another, the 
festoon stitch, by Fig. 13. Some- 
times the whole netted ground 
is covered by this stitch, which 
is very effective if regularly 
worked. A little practice makes 
perfect. Point-lace stitches are 
combined most effectively in 
different patterns. For this pur- 
pose, the foundation should be 
stretched in a frame (Fig. 14). 
This frame is of heavy wire, 
wound with tape or cloth, to 

which the netting is attached. Drawn- work may be effectively 
copied in netting, obviating the necessity for drawing threads, and 
facilitating the work. In short, the applications of this art are 
without limit. 

Just at present, netting is much in favor for trimming window 
draperies. For this purpose plain diamond or square netting is 
used, with J^-inch mesh, and No. 40 or No. 50 of Barbour's Irish 

Fig. 16. 



Fig. 17. 

flax thread, and the edge is either straight or in Vandykes, with 
tiny tassels of the thread tied in the loops. Other and more 

fanciful designs are also used, among 
which may be mentioned " fan net- 
ting " (Fig. 15)". 1 st and 2d rows are 
plain netting, over % -inch mesh. 3d 
row, thread twice over mesh each loop. 
4th row, plain. 5 th row, 5 stitches in 

1 stitch of previous row, thread over 
twice, miss 1, and repeat. 6th row, 1 
stitch in each of 4 cluster loops, miss 
loop, repeat. 7th row, 1 stitch in each 
of 3 loops, thread over twice, miss 1, 
repeat. 8th row, 1 stitch in each of 

2 loops, thread over twice, miss long 
loop as before, repeat. This makes a 
very pretty edge for doilies. Draw 

up the straight edge and buttonhole over, forming desired circle. 
Still another variation of the " fan " is shown by Fig. 16. This is 
the "sheaf," or "double fan," and is a very desirable edging for 
curtains, doilies, etc. First 3 
rows, plain, over *^-inch ^esh. 
4th row, a stitch in each loop, 
using inch mesh and double 
thread. 5th, a stitch in each 
loop, with single thread and small 
mesh. Knot the long stitches to- 
gether with needle and thread in 
clusters. The heading for these 
edgings is worked with the cro- 
chet needle. 1 dc in a stitch, 
ch 3, and repeat. For insertion, 
make both edges alike. Fig. 17 gives another simple but very 
pretty pattern. Beginning with 2 plain rows, over ^ -inch mesh, 
make 3d row with y 2 -inch mesh and double thread. 4th row 
like 2d. 5th row like 3d, and 6th and 7th rows like 1st and 

Fig. iS. 


2d. Half the width may be made, and for curtains tassels tied in 
the loops. Looped netting (Fig. 18) may be varied, as to pattern, 
almost indefinitely. The loop need only be described, as the 
remainder is plain netting. x\fter a common stitch, which must be 
rather long, having the knot come a little distance from the mesh, 
carry the thread rather loosely around the mesh, putting the needle 
through the loop where the knot is, and making as many loops as 
desired. Then make the knot, uniting all the loops in one knot- 
stitch, carrying needle around bunch from behind, and pushing it 
up in front from underneath, drawing up tightly. 

It is hoped that this paper will be of value, not only to the many 
ladies who have requested it, but as well to other friends. Netting 
is a beautiful, though simple art, and will well repay the effort of 



K, knit plain. 

O, over; thread over needle, forming an extra stitch. O 2, over 

N, narrow ; knit two stitches together. 

P, purl (or seam) ; knit with thread before needle. 

SI, n, and b, slip, narrow, and bind ; slip first stitch, narrow next 
two, and draw slipped stitch over. 

SI and b, slip and bind ; same as si, n, and b, omitting the narrow- 
ing. To cast or bind off, continue the process. 

Stars and parentheses indicate repetition; thus, * o 2, n, repeat 
from * twice, and (o 2, n,) 3 times, mean the same as o 2, n, o 2, n, 
o 2, n. 


Ch, chain ; a straight series of loops, each drawn with the hook 
through the one preceding it. 

Sc, single crochet ; hook through work, thread over and draw 
through work and stitch on hook at same time. 

Dc, double crochet ; hook through work, thread over, and draw 
through, over, and draw through two stitches on hook. 

Tc, treble crochet ; over, draw thread through work, over, draw 
through two stitches on hook, over, and draw through remaining 

Stc, short treble crochet; like treble, save that the thread is 
drawn through the three stitches at once. 

Dtc, double treble crochet ; thread over twice before insertion of 
hook in work, then proceed as in treble crochet. 

P, picot ; a loop of chain joined by catching in first stitch of 

Complete illustrated directions for these stitches are given in 
" No. 1 " of the Prize Series. 

Established 1784. 

ftzk for l&avbouvz. 

Jf b tg>e iksf for a££ ubw. 

5mi$i upor^ Rafting if. 

See that the threads you purchase hear labels similar to 
the follonring. THEY ARE STANDAED. 




/ Oz. Balls. 


DARK BLUE, for strong Sewing. 

WHITE, ) for 

Lace Making 







In all the Art Shades. 



The Barbour Brothers Co. 



X9 3 

Size 00, "Rope," Medium 
4, "Etching," Fine. 

White Flossette 

NOS. 16 TO 70. 
(No. 70 Fine Size.) 

3-Cord Carpet Thread. 



Fine to Coarse. 

j?tek for BarBour's. 




Are made for every branch, of trade, and 
for every purpose where Linen Threads 
are used. 

They are specially adapted and are stan- 
dard and the best for all kinds of hand 
sewing and machine work. 

Linen Threads specially made for 

Boot and Shoe flaking, 

Clothing Manufacturers, 
Carpet Sewing, 
Harness and Saddlery Making, 
Book Binding, 

Glove Making, 

Fish Nets. 

For Strength and Durability 


Is the best for all uses, 

Received Highest Awards at 

World's Pair, Chicago, 1893, 

Special Merits. 
Distinguished Excellence. 

Uniformity. Strength. 
Adaptability. Durability. 

Barbour's Threads receive Highest Awards wherever exhibited. 

<S]3oo), Ball, ar\c| <Skeih Tl\rec\<is. 


For all kinds of coarse, strong sewing, and fine stitching, and for 
every kind of Art Needlework with Linen. 

Por sale by all wholesale dry goods jobbing houses, shoe findings 
and saddlery hardware dealers throughout the country. 

At retail by all small-ware dealers, general stores, carpet houses, 
and shoe findings dealers, 

i^tek for y&avbouv'B. 



is continually and rapidly advancing in popularity as its perfect 
adaptability to trie varied uses of expensive silks becomes more 
strongly attested. Its smoothness and lustre is unsurpassed. It 
is especially adapted for Embroidery, for the decoration of a 
thousand and one articles for home use and adornment, and with 
equally as charming effect can be applied as readily to the uses of 
Knotting, ^Netting, Knitting, Crocheting, and kindred arts. For 
Slippers, Mittens, Purses, etc., it is durable, lustrous, firm, and 
far less expensive than silk, and its sale in this new field is con- 
stantly increasing. 

75 shades are now on the market, including the Newest Art 
Shades, and the old favorites ; others will be added as approved. 

Ask your Dealer for 



Make a light suds with Ivory or other pure soap, and (particu- 
larly for the first laundering) cool water. AYash one article at a 
time, finishing with this before taking another. Do not rub the 
embroidery, or put soap directly upon it. Einse carefully and 
quickly in clear, cold water, to which a little salt may be added. 
After rinsing, place between two thick towels, or in one which 
may be folded over, roll up, squeeze (in order to extract the 
moisture), then unroll, place right side down on a soft cloth or 
flannel folded in several thicknesses, lay a white cloth over the 
wrong side, and press until dry with a moderately hot iron. 
Art Embroidery must he washed with great care. 



Gold Medal Threads are the Best, ^f Read the Record of Highest Awards. 







New York, 218 Church St. Boston, 58 South St. 

Chicago, 108 & 110 Franklin St. St. Louis, 814 Lucas Ave. 

Philadelphia, 410 Arch St. Cincinnati, 118 East 6th St. 

San Francisco, 517 & 519 Market St. 

Also in London, Manchester, Glasgow, Dublin, Paris, Hamburg, Montreal, MelDOurne, 
Sydney, Brussels, Amsterdam, Madrid, Milan and Naples. 

Forming collectively a Flax Thread industry employing jooo persons or as large as any 

two other Linen Thread firms. 


NK9100 .B7 v.5 stack 

Bradford, Mary E./A treatise on lace-mak 

3 1 

I ! I I ill 
962 00079 

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That a!. f/W% 

Linen Thread *^Ws,J#"£ 

carries this 
Trade Mark. 




E, 200 Yards. 



e Linen Floss. 




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Boston, 58 South St. Chicago, 108 & 110 Franklin St. 

Philadelphia, 410 Arch St. Cincinnati, 118 East 6th St. 

San Francisco, 517 & 519 Market St. St. Louis, 814 Lucas Ave.